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CUGGESTIONS and information are 
^ invited from manufacturers, repairers 
and users of Bicycles in regard to desirable 
methods of Bicycle repairing-, of which 
appropriate use will be made in the current 
series of articles in THE IRON AGE and 
in future editions of this book. 



Bicycle Repairing 



A Manual Compiled from Articles in 

The Iron Age. 



BY'S. D. V. BURR. 



THIRD THOUSAND 



(1 



NOV 12 






DAVID WILLIAMS, 
96-102 Reade Street, New York. 
1896. 



3*M> 



1 



A> 







Copyright, 1895 and 1896, 
By David Williams. 




I 









THIS volume is based upon a series of articles in The Iron Age, 
which were published in view of the obvious need of prac- 
tical information in regard to approved methods of Bicycle 
repairing. In its preparation the aim has been to confine the 
description of methods to those which have been tested and 
found practical in actual use The volume is therefore the re- 
sult of experience rather than theory. 

Acknowledgment is made of the hearty and intelligent co- 
operation of the manufacturers and repairers of Bicycles in 
giving suggestions and furnishing information, thus greatly aid- 
ing in the compilation of the matter contained in the following 
pages. It is hoped that the volume will be of service not only 
in the large establishments, but more especially in the smaller 
repair shops springing up all over the country. 

The field of Bicycle repairing is a large one, and the series 
of articles which have appeared in The Iron Age will be con- 
tinued with a view to describing new and improved methods 
as they are developed in the progress of the trade, as well as to 
give information on any details which may not be adequately 
treated in this volume. Further suggestions and information 
are therefore invited from any who are interested in the subject, 
of which appropriate use will be made in The Iron Age and in 
future editions of this book. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER I. page. 

Equipment of the Shop, . . . . .to 

Tools and Arrangement. 

CHAPTER II. 
Stands for Holding the Bicycle, . . . 22 

CHAPTER III. 
Brazing, . . . . . . 32 

Furnaces, Flux, Spelter. 

CHAPTER IV. 
Tempering and Case Hardening, ... 50 

CHAPTER V. 
The Frame, ...... 58 

Fitting, Brazing, Truing, Testing. 

CHAPTER VI. 

The Fork, . . . . 75 

Restoring, Truing, Testing. 



CHAPTER VII. 
The Wheel, ...... 86 

Stringing Up, Truing, Drilling Rims. 

CHAPTER VIII. 
The Tire, ...... 98 

Single Tube, Inner Tube, Repairing. 

CHAPTER IX. 

The Valve, . . . . . .108 

Replacing, Repairing. 

CHAPTER X. 

The Handle Bar, . . . . . 113 

Bending. 

CHAPTER XL 

Miscellaneous Hints, . . . '. 118 

CHAPTER XII. 

Enameling, . . . . . . 134 

Liquid, Ovens, Directions. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Nickel Plating, . . . . . .149 

Equipment, Directions. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Keeping Track of Work, . . . . 154 

Shop Accounts, Charging. 



The Bicycle of to-day is built on scientific principles by the 
most competent mechanics and of the strongest and best ma- 
terials. Although no expense is spared by the leading manu- 
facturers in their efforts to produce perfect wheels, it happens 
unfortunately that, through accident or abuse, the machine is 
injured and breaks down. It therefore requires at times the 
attention of one having knowledge of the methods necessary to 
repair it. Placed in the hands of an inexperienced practitioner 
it may be permanently injured and perhaps ruined, but if treated 
by one skilled in the art it may be restored to its original 
strength and usefulness. 

The wonder is not that the Bicycle occasionally breaks 
down but that it lasts as well as it does. When we consider the 
relative weight of the wheel and its rider, and think of its ap- 
parently frail construction, and then remember the severe 
strains to which it is subjected in service, we are compelled to 
admire its design, the strength of its parts, and the perfection 
of its workmanship. When a machine of this character, so 
delicate in its component parts and so finely adjusted, is in need 
of repair, it should evidently be taken to one who will under- 
stand the difficulty and who knows how to apply the proper 
remedy. 

This seeming delicacy of the Bicycle has been of the ut- 
most importance to the Bicycle trade as a whole. To it, and to 
it alone, can be ascribed the wonderful scarcity of really poor 
wheels. The Bicycle is a chain, and every part constitutes a 
link which must of necessity bear its portion of the strain. To 
weaken one of these links or parts by the introduction of in- 



ferior material means the speedy destruction of the wheel. To 
keep up the strength by using a greater quantity of cheap metal 
would meet with no demand, because the rider of to-day will 
not mount a heavy wheel. This delicacy is, in a certain sense, 
a guarantee of the honesty of manufacture of the wheel, and 
the Bicycle itself is the best safeguard against imposture. 

The millions of Bicycles now in use have created a demand 
for the services of bright mechanics. Almost every town, no 
matter how small in population, can boast of some one who at 
least professes to make a specialty of Bicycle repairing. Un- 
fortunately, too many men have gone into this business who 
have had no previous training to fit them for the work. They 
thought the Bicycle was as easy to repair as it was simple in 
appearance. These men have succeeded — in ruining thousands 
of good wheels. On the other hand, there are men in this 
business who are mechanics of experience, who have studied 
the wheel as they would an intricate problem, and who can 
repair it so as to bring it to its first condition of usefulness. 
When a manufacturer knows his wheel will be repaired properly 
he prefers that the work should be done at the shop nearest 
the home of the owner rather than that it be sent to his own 
works. The principal reason for this is that the rider is not 
deprived of the use of his wheel for so long a time. 

In the matter here following we have attempted to tell how 
to repair a Bicycle. We advance no theories, but describe, as 
plainly as possible, how each individual part of a wheel can be 
repaired. We also show, as far as was thought desirable, differ- 
ent methods of doing the same job. In almost every instance 
the illustrations represent the work as actually performed, and 
there has been no attempt to introduce fictitious methods. 



CHAPTER I. 

The Equipment of the Shop. 

■ 

In this chapter it is proposed to enumerate the appliances 
which can be bought for certain sums of money, and which, for 
the amount specified, would seem to best fit the conditions of a 
general repair shop. We are well aware of the fact that there is 
much diversity of opinion regarding the tools which should, of 
necessity, form part of the equipment, and also that the choice 
is often influenced by the particular line of work the repairer 
intends to take up, and by his location and surroundings. 

The extent or thoroughness of the repair outfit is controlled 
by two things : i, The amount of money the repairer has to in- 
vest in tools, and 2, the scope or range of the business he ex- 
pects to carry on. If his capital is limited he cannot, of course, 
provide all the appliances ordinarily considered essential. If 
he is unhampered as far as expenditure is concerned he can fur- 
nish everything needed, even to those devices which are luxuries 
rather than necessities. All things considered it is best to start 
in a modest way and to increase the stock of tools to meet the 
demand. This will guard against the buying of devices which 
may be expensive, and which are called into service only occa- 
sionally. It is not good policy to lock up the money in this way 
when it can be employed to far better advantage. On the other 
hand, if the outlay is unrestricted, the shop may be cumbered 
with fine apparatus which the business carried on does not de- 
mand, and the profits, when the balance sheet is made up, will 
be reduced because of unproductive machinery. 

One course the repairer should decide at the start. There 
are certain tools he must buy, but with those he can make 
others of minor importance. How far this may be carried will 
depend solely upon his ability ; if he is a trained mechanic 
many of the devices described in the following pages can be 
constructed during his leisure moments. 



IO BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

In the following list of tools we have assumed the money 
available to be $100, $300 and $500, and have therefore divided 
the subject into three parts. 

Equipment for $100. 

It is evident that with this amount only the small tools can 
be purchased, and the shop must be run solely by hand and foot 
power. And yet there are many repair shops which are now 
doing business successfully, and which are not provided with 
tools worth $100. With only this amount at command, several 
important tools of undoubted value must be omitted. These 
are, in the order of their importance, the screw cutting lathe, 
upright drill, brazing table, air reservoir and its pump, enamel- 
ing oven, and steam or gas engine, or electric motor or water 
motor, for driving the tools. While this amount will not include 
the screw cutting lathe it will permit of the introduction of an 
ordinary speed lathe, and with this much of the work can be 
done, although at a disadvantage. The upright drill maybe re- 
placed by the so-called blacksmiths' drill, which may be had for 
$10 or $15. The repairer can easily provide the table with 
suitable chucking devices for holding work of different kinds. 

Unfortunately, since the Bicycle manufacturers have no 
standard of sizes, and no common or uniform method of doing 
work, it is necessary for the repairer to provide more tools than 
would be otherwise needed. This is particularly noticeable in 
the taps and dies required. The same size of spoke may call 
for three or four different threads, according to the whim of the 
maker. While this condition of things is being gradually 
brought to some degree of uniformity, the repairer is not aided 
at the present time. 

LIST OF TOOLS FOR $IOO. 
Taps and Dies with Stock and Tap Wrench in sizes as follows : 

7l6, V64. 732, 764, }i, 764, V 3 2, Vl6, 7 3 2, % inch #0.00 

Drills for above 2.00 

Drills from % to % inch by i6ths 3.85 

1 set Taper Reamers, %, yb, Vie, K inch i-7° 

1 Hand Drill 1.50 

1 Drill Gauge 1.50 

1 Thread Gauge 1.00 

1 Ball Pein Hammer 90 

1 Riveting Hammer .50 



THE EQUIPMENT OF THE SHOP. II 

i Hide Faced Hammer 1.25 

1 Lead Hammer 40 

1 Lignumvitae Mallet 50 

1 Bench Vise 7.00 

1 Pin Vise 1.25 

1 14-inch Pipe Wrench 3.00 

2 6-inch Monkey Wrenches 1.00 

1 15-inch Monkey Wrench 1.20 

1 pair Round Pliers 45 

1 pair 10-inch Gas Pliers 60 

1 pair Cutting Nippers 90 

1 pair side Cutting Pliers 1.00 

1 Oil Can 35 

1 50-pound Anvil 5.00 

1 Brazing Blow Pipe 3.00 

1 Foot Bellows 5.00 

1 Belt Punch for punching holes in tires for lacing 60 

1 Bit Brace 2.00 

1 pair Outside Calipers 40 

1 pair Inside Calipers 40 

1 pair Dividers 50 

1 Screw Clamp, opens 6 inches 45 

1 2- foot Rule 15 

1 Hack Saw Frame 90 

1 dozen Hack Saws 65 

2 Screw Drivers 50 

1 Foot Pump and Connections 2.00 

Brazing Solder 1.00 

1 Portable Forge 12.00 

1 Center Punch 20 

1 Grindstone 4.50 

1 Oil Stone 50 

1 V? and i-inch Chisels 70 

1 Blacksmith's Drill 12.00 

1 Cold and 1 Cape Chisel, i^-inch 60 

1 Hand Drill 1.50 

1 Breast Drill 3.00 

2 12 inch Bastard Flat Files 1 

2 9-inch Bastard Half Round I 

1 9-inch Smooth Half Round ( " 5 

1 9-inch Smooth Round J 

Total $99-90 

Some of the items in the above may be considered as super- 
fluous by the repairer. We think the two most doubtful items 
are the forge and grindstone, which cost together $16.50. While 
these would be of the utmost use if the outfit included a lathe, 
which would require the making of cutting tools, they can in 
this case be dispensed with. All brazing, soldering, etc., can be 
done with the brazing blow pipe. The sum represented by the 
forge and grindstone could be expended as follows : 

A second Brazing Blow Pipe to be arranged so that the flames of the two 

would meet as in the Brazing Furnaces hereafter described $3.00 

Gas Pipe connections and table for same, with the necessary Fire Brick, 

etc., the work to be done by the repairer 7 00 

This arrangement would be more convenient than the forge 

and would meet every requirement admirably. The balance of 



12 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

the amount, $6.50, can be profitably expended in increasing the 
line of taps, dies and drills, and in stocking up with brazing 
solder, rubber cement, patches for rubber tires, etc. It is pre- 
sumed that the repairer will make all the work benches, racks, 
shelves, and similar articles. 

Equipment for $300. 

The amount now to be expended for tools being $300, the 
repairer can add the most essential machine tools to the list of 
small tools enumerated above. The first and most important 
is the lathe. This, of necessity, must be arranged for foot 
power, as the sum of money in hand will not provide power for 
the shop. A 12-inch swing over the ways will meet all ordinary 
requirements. The lathe should be screw cutting, and should 
be provided with face plate, drill chuck, inside and outside 
chuck, and the cutting tools. A lathe of this kind of good 
make can be bought for $125, and the attachments needed 
for $20. 

Next an emery wheel grinder for $15. An upright drill 
may be had for $40, and will be found exceedingly useful for 
such work as drilling the holes in chain links, flanges of hubs 
and the like. The account now stands as follows : 

Amount expended for small Tools $100. 00 

Lathe 125.00 

Lathe Attachments 20.00 

Emery Wheel Grinder , 15.00 

Upright Drill and Attachments 40.00 

Total $300 . 00 

If deemed advisable by the work it is expected to do, the 
emery wheel grinder can be dispensed with and an enameling 
oven built for the amount it would cost, provided the repairer 
did the work himself. 

Equipment for $500. 

With this amount it is possible to run the shop with power. 
In the vast majority of cases a steam engine would be out of 
the question, as power is only occasionally required. A gas en- 
gine or electric motor is preferable, as either may be started in- 
stantly, and there is no expense incurred except when some 



THE EQUIPMENT OF THE SHOP. 13 

work is being performed. Putting the cost of either of these 
at $125, we have $75 left, Of this, $35 should supply the shaft- 
ing, pulleys and belts. For the balance an air tank, to hold air 
under pressure for blowing up tires and running the forge, and 
the air pump may be purchased. The account now stands : 

Small Tools and Machines $300.00 

Gas Engine or Electric Motor 130.00 

Shafting, etc 35-°° 

Air Tank and Pump 35-°° 

Total $500.00 

The above lists are only offered as suggestions. The de- 
sires and demands of each individual must largely influence the 
selection. Some repairers would do away with all of the last 
items and might expend the $200 in a larger and better enamel- 
ing oven, a brazing furnace, a larger lathe and in adding to the 
stock of small tools, and in the purchase of some of the most 
useful special appliances which have been designed for repair 
work. 

Work Bench. 

The work bench illustrated in Fig. 1 will be found very 
convenient in a small shop. It should be erected where day- 
light is abundantly supplied by one or more windows, and must 
be screwed to the floor, and, better still, also to the wall along 
the window side. Select for the top of the bench three lengths 
of 2 x 10 inch hardwood lumber, dressed on upper sides and all 
around on the 2-inch sides. Make a true joint where the tim- 
bers butt, and at every 30 inches bore ^-inch holes through 
the timbers, as indicated by the dotted lines AAA. The joints 
are then to be glued and held together firmly by ^-inch bolts 
with large washers and nuts. 

A very close fit of the top timbers is especially desirable, as 
small screws, oiler covers, flat springs, balls and similar parts of 
diminutive proportions, when placed upon a bench with fissures 
between the timbers, are liable to drop through the openings 
and disappear, sometimes never to be located again. A well- 
made top will also keep dust, filings and dirt out of the tool 
drawer, which may be located about as shown in cut. The legs 
L and cross timbers C should be pine posts 4x4 inches, and let 



14 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



into each other under the top of the bench. Along the front 
edge of the bench there is fastened by means of screws' a ^ x 
2^ inch strip of hard wood, to project above the top of the 
bench x / 2 inch. A similar strip is secured to the opposite edge, 
but measuring ^ x 3 inches, and projecting 1 inch. These 
strips will prevent small tools and parts rolling off the 
bench. In the sketch, over the leg on the right hand side, the 
location of the vise is indicated. The overhanging portion of 
the bench to the right of the vise will be found very useful for a 




Fig. l.—Work Bench. 



supply of tools when working at the vise. All braces, B, can be 
made from 2x4 inch pine. Nail a 1 x 3 inch board on the in- 
side of the left leg, leaving a space of 1^ inches between the 
leg and board. This is very useful and serves as a stand for an 
assembled Bicycle while repairs are being attended to, which 
makes this position of the machine desirable. Boards laid over 
the two braces B and B make a very good place for keeping 
certain parts of Bicycles, as wheels and so on, while others are 
being repaired. The described bench is about as large as it 
should be for one repairer or assembler to conveniently work 



THE EQUIPMENT OF THE SHOP. T - 

at, but these proportions can be repeated in any desirable and 
continuous length, if more than one vise is to be set up. All of 
the principal dimensious are marked on the drawing. 

Parts Carried in Stock. 

The repairer may consider the parts to be carried in stock 
as part of the equipment. 

All parts of Bicycles are made upon the interchangeable 
system — that is, a certain part of one wheel will fit, and fit per- 
fectly, in the place of the same part in any other wheel of the 
same design built by the same company. In addition, every 
maker keeps in stock duplicate parts of each different machine 
he turns out, most of them keeping duplicates of every part of 
every design they have ever produced. As any of these can be 
obtained by expre-s upon a telegraph order, each individual 
repairer must decide for himself which parts and how many he 
will carry in stock. Some parts, such as crank shaft brackets, 
are expensive and are not often required. Others, such as 
spokes and tubes, are more frequently in demand. 

It is a safe rule, and one followed by many repairers to 
have on hand all of the parts of all of the machines for which 
they are agents. This insures the prompt repairing of their 
own wheels and pays as a business investment. Beyond this 
there is no rule ; the judgment of the repairer and the probable 
requirements of his customers are the only guides. 

In nine cases out of ten it does not pay a repairer to make 
any part of a Bicycle if he can obtain it from the maker in time 
to suit his customer. The manufacturer is interested in the 
repair of his wheels, and he is usually prepared to furnish parts 
cheaper than the repairer can make them. One important ad- 
vantage arising from keeping parts in stock rather than making 
them is the fact that the accuracy of the repaired wheel is 
assured and its appearance is not marred by having clumsily 
made or poorly fitting pieces introduced. 

Shop Arrangement. 

In order to do work quickly and economically, it is of the 
utmost importance to have a well arranged shop, of such size 



l6 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

and shape as to provide ample space for all the tools, and for 
the storage of wheels and parts, and, what is most essential, to 
be well lighted. While these are considerations of value, we 
are aware of the fact that in the vast majority of cases the tools 
must be made to fit in a room which is, perhaps, not adapted to 
the work and in which the best arrangement cannot be obtained. 
Very rarely does it happen that the room can be made on pur 
pose to accommodate the tools and to provide the best possible 
place for all the necessary devices. The skill of the repairer 
and his knowledge of the requirements of the work must there- 
fore be called into play in order that he may utilize every foot 
of space in the room he is to occupy. If the quarters are not 
amply lighted throughout he must place, as far as possible, 
those tools intended for fine work — the lathe, for instance, and 
the benches for hand work — where they will receive the most 
light. 

We can probably best illustrate this subject by describing 
the arrangement of one or two shops which differ from each 
other in shape and in the light openings and by showing the 
disposition of the tools made by the owners. The shops illus- 
trated were selected as, being in a certain sense representative 
or typical arrangements, they well serve to point our remarks. 
The first, Fig. 2, is a one-story building, 96 feet long by 23 feet 
wide. Theie are no side lights, but there are two skylights, 
one in the showroom and the other in the repair department. 
The front is entirely of glass, the entrance being in the center, 
with show windows upon each side. To the left of the door is 
the private office, which is formed of glass partitions about 7 
feet in hight. To the right is a railed in space occupied by 
new Bicycles. To the rear of this are a showcase and shelving 
containing Bicycle sundries. Along the entire opposite wall are 
placed 28 stalls, 18 inches apart, and numbered. These are 
rented to persons who wish to store their wheels during the 
daytime when they are at business. In the center of the 
room is a second row of 19 stalls, for holding wheels for rent- 
ing and also those which are brought in for repair. These stalls 
are arranged diagonally, so that the wheels occupy but little 
space. At the corner of the office are valve couplings to fit any 
valve and a pipe leading to the air tank in the repair shop. 






THE EQUIPMENT OF THE SHOP. 



17 




ffffflTmfflwm 

28 BICYCLE STALLS 18 APART 



0-V5 



BICYCLE STALLS 



z: e j::: l ^ "? ^^s^^^ 



D GREASE POT 

MAIN STORE 23 X 69' 

O 



NEW BICYCLES 



COUNTER 



SHELVING 




Fig. 2.— Repair Shop in Store. 



iS BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

Riders are welcome to use the air here provided and also the 
lubricant for chains. 

Twenty-seven feet from the rear of the room is a partition 
which separates the repair room from the front. To the left is 
the enameling oven, which is completely inclosed in glass. To 
the right are the desk, forge for brazing, anvil and work bench, 
which extends around the corner and across the rear wall to the 
door. Shelves are placed on the wall above the bench and also 
underneath the entire bench. To the right of the entrance is 
an electric motor which drives the lathe, and the pump supply- 
ing the air tank. Electricity is obtained from the street car cir- 
cuit. To the left of the motor are stalls, shelves and places for 
keeping parts of wheels. On the ceiling are pulleys, through 
which pass ropes by means of which wheels on storage and 
those which are not to be called for for some time may be hoisted 
out of the way. 

A further illustration of how the tools may be placed in a 
Bicycle repair shop is shown in Fig. 3. This building was 
erected to serve as a repair shop. One of the main advantages 
it possesses over a store is in having an abundance of light, 
which is admitted through windows on all sides. Although, at 
first glance, the various tools appear to be too much crowded 
together, such is not really the case, as they are all located 
against the walls, leaving the center of the room comparatively 
clear. The main building is one story in hight and measures 
on the ground 15 x 54 feet. At the front is the private office 
and show window for the display of wheels and sundries. A 
space of 24 feet in the center of the building is occupied by 
platforms on each side, which are raised about 12 inches from 
the floor, and are intended for the exhibition of new wheels. 
Back of this is the repair shop proper, which is amply lighted 
by windows on three sides. Power is obtained from an electric 
motor placed in the upper right hand corner as we look at the 
drawing. Power is transmitted by belt from the motor to the 
main driving shaft hung from the ceiling and extending the 
length of the room. Belts lead from this shaft to short counter- 
shafts located near each side wall and from these counter- 
shafts down to the several tools. On the left are first the air 
reservoir, which is supplied by a double pump mounted on the 



THE EQUIPMENT OF THE SHOP. 



top of it ; then the lathe, grindstone, upright drill and forge. 
On the right is a bench carrying the vises and at one end an 
emery wheel and blower. To the left ot the motor is a space 



34 



F 

|0 



TIRES, ETC. 



T (^UPRIGHT 
V_V DRILL 
GRIND STONE; 



W 



o 



o 



:R 1 I— i— I 



o »* 

v -"' VI 

IINET 
PARTS 

a 



CABINET 
FOR PARTS InJb Lg_ 



PRIVATE OFFICE 



SHOW WINDOW 



STALLS 18 APART 

UPPER AND LOWER TIER 



STALLS 18 APART 



Fig. 3.— Repair Shop in Special Bu'lding. 



devoted to tires and still further to the left is the water tank. 
In the center of the room are jacks for holding Bicycles. 

The spaces between the windows and under the bench are 
taken up with shelves and drawers for holding wheels and the 



20 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

parts kept in stock. The cabinet indicated at the entrance con- 
tains all the parts of the wheels for which the repairer is agent. 
These are carried in order that any needed repair may be made 
as quickly as possible. 

The extension at the right of the rear of the main building 
is 18 x 20 feet. At one side is a double bank of stalls and at the 
opposite side a single row. The stalls are placed 18 inches 
apart, and each is formed of two uprights about 2 inches in 




Fig. 4- — Rack for Holding Bicycles. 



diameter and spaced just far enough apart to permit the en- 
trance of a wheel between them. In this room the wheels need- 
ing repair and those for rent are kept. 

Rack for Holding Bicycles. 

It is essential in every shop, no matter how large or small, 
to provide means for holding wheels, whether they are for sale, 
rent or to be repaired. Preferably, the arrangement should be 
such that the wheels will occupy the least possible space. The 
rack shown in Fig. 4 is a very common form and serves the pur- 
pose well. It may be made stationary, as in the case of the two 
shops just described, or movable, as in the illustration. The 
space assigned to storage purposes may to advantage be fitted 
with a railing of any desirable length — room permitting, of 
course — placed so that it will accommodate a row of Bicycles 



THE EQUIPMENT OF THE SHOP. 



21 



upon either side The uprights of the railing are conveniently- 
made of i-inch stuff, cut about 2^ inches wide and spaced as 
follows : Two inches between the first pair of uprights, then 6 
inches of space ; after this another pair of uprights 2 inches 
apart, then 6 inches of space, and so on over the desired length 
of railing. There should be horizontal bottom and top railings 
running the entire length of the structure to strengthen it, also 
two side braces attached to either end from the upper rail to 
floor and making the stand more rigid. The railing should be 
made 28 inches high. The Bicycles are placed with their front 
wheels in the 2-inch spaces alternately on either side of the 
rack or railing. 

Utilizing the Ceiling. 

A method of supporting a Bicycle from the ceiling, either 
for inspection, cleaning or storage, is shown in Fig. 5. Fixed 




Fig. 5.— Utilizing the Ceiling. 



in the ceiling are two small pulleys, one of which, that to the 
right, is single and the other double. Two cords are strung 
through these pulleys, as indicated in the drawing, and to the 
ends of the cords are fastened hooks which hold the wheel. 
When the wheel has been raised to the desired hight the cords 
are made fast to a cleat on the side wall. 



CHAPTER II. 



>taeds for Holldlrag the Bicycle. 



While the work of dismantling the Bicycle can be per- 
formed with the machine placed upon the floor, or upon a low 
table of a size just sufficient to hold it so as to permit of its 
being conveniently approached from all sides, it is better to 




Fig. 1. — Supporting Bicycle at Bearings. 



have some arrangement for holding it securely in an upright 
position. Several of the devices about to be described are of 
home construction. All are of extremely simple design and in- 
expensive. The one shown in Fig-, i supports the Bicycle in 



STANDS FOR HOLDING THE BICYCLE. 



2 3 



an upright position at the hubs or bearings of the two wheels. 
It consists of a baseboard, near each end of which are secured 
two uprights or standards. Projecting upward from the top of 
each standard is a forked bar which may be adjusted either up 
or down. The forks of the front pair of standards are adapted 
to receive the outer ends of the front axle of the wheel, the rear 
pair receiving the two lower side bars of the frame. The base 




Fig, 2.— Stand for Holding Bicycle in Inverted Position. 



of the rack is nailed to the floor in order to hold it firmly. This 
device brings all parts of the wheel within easy reach of the 
workman, and holds it until every part has been removed ex- 
cept the fork. An advantage possessed by this stand is that it 
interferes in no way with the turning of either the front or back 
wheel. During an inspection of a wheel brought in for repair 
it is often desirable to turn either or both wheels as a help to 
finding out just where the trouble lies. 



»4 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



Stand for Holding Bicycle in Inverted Position. 



The second stand, Fig. 2, is designed to hold the wheel in 
en inverted position. It consists of an oblong box about 12 
inches deep and without top or bottom. It is about 14 inches 
wide by 40 inches long. Sunk into each upper edge of the sides 
are two grooves or notches placed directly opposite each othen 
The front pair of notches are about 6 inches from the end of the 
box, the other pair being nearly in the center. These notches 
are intended to receive the handle bar of the Bicycle, as shown 




Fig. 3. — Folding Bicycle Stand. 





Fig. 4. — Enlarged View of Clip A. 



Fig. 5.— Enlarged View of Clip E. 



in the engraving. At the rear end of the box are two standards 
projecting to about twice the hight of the box, and united by 
a cross piece on top. In the center of the front edge of this 
cross bar is a round recess, formed to receive the rear wheel. 
As the base of the box is comparatively broad it is not necessary 
to nail it to the floor. 



STANDS FOR HOLDING THE BICYCLE. 



Folding Bicycle Stand. 



25 



The stand illustrated in Figs. 3, 4 and 5 may be folded and 
hung up out of the way when not in use. The frame is 32 
inches long, 1 r inches wide and is made of 1 x 2-inch hard wood. 
The legs are 12 inches long, and at one end are pivoted to the 
side bars of the top. The spring clips A, shown enlarged in 
Fig. 4, are intended for holding the handle bar, which rests in 
notches made in the upper edges of the side bars. The curved 
part of the clips are incased in a rubber tube so as not to injure 
the handle bar. The U shaped braces B are attached to the 




Fig. 6. Fig. 7. 

Simple Bicycle Stand. 



legs near the bottom and their connecting portions enter 
notches in the frame, being held in position by the clips E. 
Fig. 5. When the braces are released from their spring clips, 
the legs may be folded against the under side of the frame. 
The seat D is cushioned and is arranged to slide so as to accom- 
modate wheels of different size. 

Column Stands for Holding a Bicycle. 

In the stands now to be described the Bicycle is held upon 
a bar projecting from a base and entering the seat post. One 
of the simplest forms is shown in Figs. 6 and 7, which consists 



26 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



of a plain round base, either of wood, or preferably of iron, with 
a spindle in it, which is turned down for a distance of about 4 
inches to fit all the standard size seat post holes in standard 
makes of frames. (This spindle may be made adjustable for 
hight by the set screw in the base.) The frame is then put on 




Fig. 8. — Show Stand. 

this spindle, bottom side up, as in Fig. 7, in which manner all 
the bearings in the forks can be taken out and put in, name 
plates put on, wheels and crank shaft bearings adjusted or trued 
and chain adjusted ; in fact, nine-tenths of the work in assem- 
bling or repairing may be done on this same spindle. 



STANDS FOR HOLDING THE BICYCLE. 27 

Show Stand. 

The stand. Fig. 8, differs from the one just described, mainly 
because it is composed of a common show stand such as is 
used in many trades to display goods upon. Sliding in the 
standard projecting from the base is a tube, which may be 
clamped at any desired hight. The center bar of the frame 
passes over this tube. 




Fig. 9.— Home Mad* Stand. 



The principal fault to be found with this stand is the lack 
of weight in the base. There is no solidity to the device, and it 
is verv apt to be knocked over unless screwed to the floor. 

Home Made Stand. 

The stand shown in Fig. 9 has one important advantage — 
it is home made. All the parts necessary for its construction 
can be obtained in almost any town, and it can be made with 
the tools found in any repair shop. The stand is formed of a 
cast iron column, such as is used for a great many machines. 



28 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



The hole in the top is plugged with hard wood or iron, and in 
the center of the top is inserted a bar small enough to enter the 
center tube of a Bicycle, and 3 or 4 inches in length. The wheel 




Fig. 10.— Stand with Table. 



is held by this bar, as shown in the engraving, at such a hight as 
to bring all parts within convenient reach of the workman. 
The stand formerly described was provided with a clamp by 
means of which the Bicycle could be held rigidly in any desired 
position. This stand could be furnished with a similar device 
if thought essential. 



STANDS FOR HOLDING THE BICYCLE. 



2 9 



A still simpler stand, and one that would serve every pur- 
pose, could be made of a piece of 1 inch gas pipe, mounted in a 
heavy block of wood. In the top of this pipe should be inserted 
a small pipe or bar about 3/ 8 inch in diameter by 4 inches long, 
for entering the center tube of the frame. 

Stand with Table. 

The stand, Fig. 10, consists of a cast iron base, B, screwed 
to the floor, fitted with a hollow wrought iron column, A, around 




Fig. 11.— Stand with Flat Cast Iron Base. 



which swings, entirely free, and supported by a bracket, S, a 
table for holding tools. The column is fitted with a clamp, C, 
at its upper end, clasping a movable post, which, if required, is 
bent to bring the Bicycle, when fixed thereto, to a horizontal 



3° 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



position, as indicated by the drawing. The Bicycle to be oper- 
ated on has its seat post removed, is inverted and placed upon 
the post of the stand. After adjusting the frame to the desired 
position the seat post clamp C and the socket clamp C are 
tightened, when the Bicycle is ready for operations. At times 
it may be desirable to remove the front fork and front wheel, 
and after clamping another larger rod into the socket C to pass 
the socket head or steering head over the rod and perform the 
required repairs with the frame in this position. 

Stand with Flat Cast Iron Base. 

An extremely simple and efficient stand is shown in Fig. n. 
The base is 26 inches in diameter and is merely a casting weigh- 




Fig. 12. — Another Method of Holding a Bicycle. 



ing about 60 pounds. In the center is a threaded hole in which 
a i-inch gas pipe is inserted, forming the standard. The circu- 
lar form of the base permits of the easy rolling of the stand 
from one location to another, while the comparatively great 
weight of the base insures its maintaining an upright position 
Further than this, the stand may be very cheaply constructed, 
as the base can be obtained from any foundry without the ne- 
cessity of furnishing a pattern, and the gas pipe can be mounted 
by any plumber or gas fitter. 



STANDS FOR HOLDING THE BICYCLE. 31 

Another Method of Holding a Bicycle. 

The engraving, Fig. 12, requires but little explanation. 
The repair shop should have the services of a bright lad, par- 
ticularly one who is both quick and ready, and who has an am- 
bition to thoroughly learn the trade and to some day own his 
own shop, and, perhaps, to take the lead as a Bicycle manu- 
facturer. 



CHAPTER III. 

Brazing, 

One of the most important operations connected with the 
making of a Bicycle is that of brazing. Every frame now on 
the market is composed of several parts united so as to form a 
single piece by means of brazing. The integrity and usefulness 
of the frame, and therefore of the wheel itself, depend upon the 
degree of perfection of the work done upon the joints. If this 
is not skillfully done, or if any one joint of the many is not 
made properly, then the wheel is doomed to speedy destruction. 

To be convinced of the really superior work performed in 
this line by the Bicycle manufacturer it is only necessary to 
examine a lot of broken frames. Not in one case in twenty — 
and we are perhaos safe in saying not in one in a hundred — will 
the fault be found in the brazed part. Breaks occur next to 
and far from the joint, but very infrequently do they take place 
in the joint proper. The repairer should fu ly appreciate the 
fact that this uniformity of result is not reached because the 
work is easy, and he should not be led to assume false confi- 
dence because the operation appears to be so simple and be- 
cause the appliances needed are seemingly so crude. 

Skill and experience are the most essential requisites of a 
brazing department. These must be supplemented by the integ- 
rity and conscientiousness of the workman. Holding two 
pieces of metal together, heating them, and applying a flux and 
a solder will not always produce a brazed joint. There are 
other things needed. If two strips of thin metal are lapped 
upon each other and the meeting parts brazed the joint may or 
may not be a good one. An examination of the edge may indi- 
cate that the joint has been closed nicely all around. At the 
same time the joint may be pulled apart with the hands. 

All the inspection possible and the closest scrutiny from the 
outside will not convey much knowledge of the true worth and 
condition of the joint The real strength of the joint is out of 



BRAZING. $$ 

sight in the interior. When the meeting surfaces have been 
united by the proper heating of the metal, and when the braz- 
ing solder or spelter has flowed completely, the joint may be 
considered as perfect. Cutting through the joint is the only 
way of ascertaining if this has been done ; looking at the ex- 
terior gives only an indication, but nothing positive or definite. 
ft is for this reason that the past experience of the operator 
plays such an important role, and this also explains why he 
should be careful and honest in his endeavor to produce good 
work. His training tells him when the joint has been brought 
to the proper temperature and when the entire joint has been 
heated evenly through and through. He also is certain when 
the brazing spelter has flowed perfectly. Work he has done in 
the past is the guide he follows at the present time. Xot having 
this training the novice must work in the dark. It is advisable 
for the beginner to practice brazing on some old tubes before 
attempting this kind of work on a Bicycle. 

In the following divisions of this article on brazing several 
different kinds of brazing furnaces are considered first, followed 
by accounts of the fluxes and brazing spelters or solders, and 
their action discussed. This arrangement is thought to be 
best, as it presents the necessary appliances first and their 
manner of employment second. 

Brazing Furnaces. 

It may be assumed that furnaces using gas (ordinary illu- 
minating) or vaporized hydrocarbons, such as gasoline or petro- 




Fi'i. 1. — The Bunsen Burner. 



leum, are constructed upon the principle illustrated in Fig. i. 
In this the blast of air and the gas unite before leaving the noz- 
zle. In each pipe is a valve to regulate the flow of both gas and 
air. Before the air and gas leave the burner they are mixed, 



34 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 




Fig. 2.— Large Brazing Furnace. 



BRAZING. 35 

and the perfection of combustion depends very largely upon 
the thorough intermingling of the two. This action will be 
more readily understood from* the descriptions which are to 
follow. 

In the brazing furnace shown in Fig. 2 the two main pipes 
conveying air and gas, respectively, are united in the burner in 
the usual way. Each nozzle is carried in a bracket, which may 
be adjusted to any hight to bring the flame at the desired dis- 
tance above the table, as will be understood by reference to the 
drawing. Resting upon the table, which is a simple construc- 
tion of cast iron, are the fire bricks, which are so arranged as to 
confine and concentrate the meeting flames of the two burners 
upon the work in hand. In this case the fire bricks are made of 
perforated' cast iron, shaped as indicated, this construction and 
material having been found preferable to those ordinarily made 
of fire clay. 

Brazing Furnace Without Fire Bricks. 

The furnace shown in Fig. 3 is very similar in design to the 
one just described. The table is a simple cast iron affair of the 
form plainly shown in the engraving, At opposite sides of the 
top are standards upon which sleeves slide freely. These sleeves 
are held at any desired hight by the thumb screws shown. Each 
sleeve carries a burner to which the gas and air pipes are con- 
nected, and each of these pipes is provided with the usual valve 
for regulating the flow. The two burners can thus be adjusted 
so that the meeting points of their flames will be at any required 
hight above the table. 

This furnace differs from that before mentioned chiefly in the 
method of operating it. No fire bricks are placed so as to form 
a pocket to receive the article to be brazed. The burners are 
much larger than the others, this being done in order that the 
article may be completely enveloped in the flame. 

We do not find that an open furnace of this kind is used 
very extensively, most of the brazing being done with the aid of 
fire bricks. But those who do use it claim that they can do bet- 
ter work, and that with an open flame there is less risk of injury 
to the steel by hurtful ingredients uniting with it. It is claimed 
that although the piece is entirely surrounded by the flame 



30 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



there is a current of air which tends to remove constantly the 
dangerous elements which might come in contact with the 
metal if the flames were confined. A further claim for this fur- 
nace, and one which has much more foundation in fact, is that 
the work is not partially hidden. It is in plain view from all 
sides and its exact condition can be found without removing it 




Fig. 3 —Brazing Furnace Without Fire Bricks. 



from the flame. In addition the flux and brazing solder can be 
applied without trouble. 

Four=Flame Brazing Furnace. 

The brazing furnace shown in Fig. 4 possesses very decided 
advantages over those described previously. Its construction 
is so plainly brought out in the engraving that only a brief de- 
scription is required. The air and gas pipes are bent to about 
three-quarters of a circle and are arranged one above the other, 
that supplying the air being above the other. From the upper 



e ? a z : n :- . 



11 



circle four tubes project radially to within a short distanc 
the center. These tubes are united with the lower circle by the 
tubes shown. This provides fourBunsen burners placed at equal 
distances apart in a circle, and each directing its flame toward a 
common center. The flames are controlled in the usual manner 
by means of the valves indicated. These burners can t e w : rked 
independently or all together, according to the heat required 
by the work in hand. When operated together the piece is 
perfectly enveloped inflame and any lesired temperature can 




I | t-—Fo\ ■..-... \ Brazing Furnace. 



be obtained. Further, the hea: is ::ncentrated and delivered 
upon all sides of the joint, insuring an even heating of the 
metal by the direct contact of the flames 

The furnace evidently admits of wide modifications while 
still preserving its distinguishing characteristics. If an opening 
were cut in the top of the table to a point beyond the center, a 
Bicycle frame could in some cases be handled much easier, and 
the point could be brought to the position most favorable for 
doing the work. With a solid top this is not always possible. 
Placing the rings upon legs and doing away with the top would 
be a still better arrangement. A further advantage in some in- 
stances would result if the burners were so placed that the rlame 



38 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



could be directed up or down or at any desired inclination to 
the plane of the rings. This would permit of a wider distribu- 
tion of the flame and the heating of a larger piece. 

A Simple Brazing Furnace. 

With the aid of the engravings, Figs. 5 and 6, the repair- 
man can construct for himself a furnace with which he can 
perform all the brazing required. 

It consists of four valves, four quarter couplings and differ- 




ing. 5. — A Simple Brazing Furnace. 



ent lengths of gas pipe. All the parts can be purchased at any 
plumbing establishment, where the pipe can be cut to the 
lengths required and the ends threaded. A pair of pipe tongs 
is the only tool needed to assemble the parts. 

The stand consists of two cast iron frames held by rods and 
having boards placed across the top. Where frames of this 



BRAZING. 



39 



kind could not be conveniently obtained, wooden frames could 
be made that would serve just as well. The cross pieces on the 
top should not be fastened to the frames, as it is often necessary 
to shift them in order to accommodate different kinds of work. 
The stand may be made 30 inches high, 24 inches wide and 24 
inches deep. These dimensions can, of course, be changed if 
thought desirable. 

Referring now to Fig. 6, all of the pipes are 1 inch in 
diameter. The air pipe K and the gas pipe J lead to the air and 
gas supplies respectively. The pipe H may be 4 inches long, 
and the pipes F and D 2 inches. The burner pipes B should be 
of such length as to bring the outlets or nozzles A about 9 
inches apart. These pipes will vary in length according to the 
width of the stand and the distance of the pipes J and K from 




Fig. 6,— Detail of One Burner. 



the edges of the stand. On the end of the burner pipe B is a 
reducing couple which reduces the opening to y 2 inch. Instead 
of the valve G, which controls the flow of gas, being arranged 
as shown, the two pipes F and H could be united by a J and a 
straightway valve placed between the stem of the J and the 
pipe J, Perhaps the only object of this construction would be 
to cheapen the cost a trifle. 

It will be noticed that the two quarter bend couplings C 
and E could be dispensed with and the pipe F extended to form 
the burner. The supply pipes J and K would then be placed 
at right angles with the sides of the stand instead of parallel, as 



40 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

they are in the engraving. The burner would then be held 
rigidly in one position, and it would not be possible to adjust 
the name to suit different kinds of work. This would be a most 
serious objection and would limit the usefulness of the furnace. 
But by following the construction shown the burner is prac- 
tically mounted upon a universal joint and the flame can be 



* -.. 




Fig. ? ' .—Brazing v.ith Old. Fashioned Forge. 



directed toward any desired point. The horizontal movement 
of the burner can be made about the pipe D and its vertical 
movement about the pipe F. Without this range of adjustment 
the piece being brazed would have to be supported on fire 
bricks to bring the joint at the meeting point of the two flames. 
This would be troublesome and sometimes difficult. 



BRAZING. 41 

Brazing with Old Fashioned Forge. 

With the old fashioned blacksmith forge, as shown in Fig. 
7, brazing can be done, although the operator works under 
many disadvantages. In the first place the work or joint to be 
brazed is more or less hidden by the fuel used, and, therefore, 
its exact condition, as far as its heating is concerned, cannot be 
as readily ascertained as when the work is done in the furnace 
using flame, as previously described. This is a very essential 
point, because the metal in the tubes is so thin that unless the 
heat is watched very carefully there is danger of burning by 
overheating, but where it becomes necessary to braze with a 
forge of this description, andj where ordinary soft coal is used 
it would be well to start the fire and run it some time before 
brazing the joint in it, in order to burn out, as far as possible, 
those elements in the coal which would be likely to injure the 
steel by forming a union with it. After the coal has been 
burned so that the flame looks bright and clear the joint can 
then be introduced. A better fuel to use for this purpose is 
coke, or perhaps the best is charcoal. With the latter there 
would be practically little or no danger from the presence of 
hurtful ingredients. Our engraving of this forge is merely 
produced in order to show that even with the crudest apparatus 
brazing can, when necessity calls for it, be done. With the 
small portable forges in which the blast of air is derived from 
the rotary blower much better work can be done, because the 
forge, considered as a whole, is more convenient for the oper- 
ator and m^re thoroughly under his control. 

Heating a Joint. 

The drawing, Fig. 8, serves to illustrate an experiment 
which it would be well for those who have had no ex- 
perience in brazing to try. Two pieces of sheet steel are 
lapped over each other, as shown, and are held in contact with 
each other by wires wound around each end. The flame of a 
Bunsen burner is then directed against one side, as indicated. 
It will be found that the piece immediately under the flame 
heats rapidly and becomes red hot before the under piece does. 
The joints of a Bicycle are formed on practically the same prin- 



42 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



ciple — two pieces of tube, one within the other. This joint 
should be heated evenly throughout, and to accomplish this the 
part must be held in the flame some time after the outer layer 
of metal has reached the heat necessary for brazing. Of course 
the thickness of the metal and the closeness of the two parts to 
each other will have an influence on the length of time required. 
If the overlapping parts are very thin and touch each other all 
over, the inner part will follow the other very quickly in reach- 
ing the required temperature. It should not be taken for 
granted that because the edges are heated sufficiently to receive 
the brazing solder the inner surfaces are in the same condition. 
And yet, in order to make a perfect joint, the pieces must be 
heated uniformly throughout. A crude idea of the time needed 
may be obtained by repeating the experiment with different 




Fig. 8. — Brazing Experiment. 

thicknesses of steel and having a larger and smaller space be- 
tween the surfaces. 

Fitting Parts for Brazing. 

We have not as yet said anything regarding the desirability 
of fitting together accurately the parts which are to be united 
by brazing. If the joint is left comparatively open, and the 
brazing solder is depended upon to fill the recesses between the 
surfaces, the job will be lacking in strength and will most cer- 
tainly be a source of trouble later on. Other things being 
equal, the thinner the layer of solder uniting the surfaces the 
stronger the joint. The strength of the steel is vastly greater 
than that of the solder, and when the latter is present in any 



BRAZING. 43 

considerable quantity, as in a poorly fitted joint, the strength of 
the union is only that of the weaker member. Too much care, 
therefore, cannot be expended in the fitting of the parts before 
brazing. 

The fear that the solder will not flow to and cover all parts 
in a well fitted joint has but little foundation in practice. The 
enlargement of the outer part, a tube for instance, due to ex- 
pansion as it heats, will separate the parts sufficiently to permit 
the flux to flow freely over the entire surface, and it may be ac- 
cepted as axiomatic that where the flux flows the solder will 
follow. 

Another and most essential requisite is the cleanliness of 
the surfaces, which should be absolutely free from even a trace 
of dirt of any description. The surface should be bright and 
smooth. The practice, fortunately not very common, of rough- 
ing the surfaces with a coarse file, under the impression that the 
ridges thus formed will aid in holding the solder and add to the 
strength of the joint, is a pernicious one. Doing this actually 
reduces the strength, as a greater quantity of solder is admitted 
than would be the case if the surfaces were finely finished. Any 
one can easily demonstrate this by brazing together two 
smooth pieces and two rough pieces, all the other conditions as 
to material, size of joint and manner of holding being similar. 

When the heat is applied to a joint ample time should be 
allowed for the piece inside to reach the proper temperature. 
If this inside piece, as in a forged crank shaft bracket, is consid- 
erably heavier than the outside one, it will require some time 
longer before it reaches the proper degree of heat. It is far 
safer to keep the joint in the flame for too long a period rather 
than too short. When the two pieces are of the same thickness, 
it is far easier to make a perfect braze, because the inner tube 
follows more closely the outer one during heating and reaches 
the brazing temperature at almost the same time. 

The majority of manufacturers and repairers pin the parts 
in order to hold them during the operation of brazing. A few 
depend, when possible, upon holding the parts together by 
wrapping wire around them. Good work cannot be done by 
this latter method, since the parts cannot be held in close 
enough contact. 



44 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



The method followed by the builders of a well-known Bicycle 
in making their crank shaft brackets very clearly emphasizes 
the points we have endeavored to bring out. This bracket is 
illustrated in its rough form in Fig. 9. 

The parts to receive the ends of the tubes are first fitted 
to the large main tube with the utmost nicety, and a bright 
finish is given to the meeting surfaces. Four equidistant holes 
are then bored through each flange and through the main tube, 
the parts being held together firmly. Each hole is then tapped 




Fig. 9.— Fitting Parts for Brazing. 

and a screw inserted. The projecting inner ends of the screws 
are then cut off, and as a further precaution the screws are upset 
or riveted down. It is very evident that this plan insures the 
rigid holding of the parts together during brazing, and guar- 
antees the making of a perfect union. After brazing, the edges 
and screw heads are filed down. 



Flux for Brazing. 

In Bicycle work borax is the flux most generally used, and 
it can be purchased from any of the supply houses dealing in 
this class of material in one of three forms : The plain borax, 
borax which has been dried or calcined, or borax which has 



BRAZING. 45 

been melted and then broken to the form of a coarse powder or 
granulated condition. It would be well for the novice in braz- 
ing to experiment with these three forms. He will find that the 
first swells and bubbles under heat in a remarkable way, and 
does not flow readily over the surface. More important, it 
seems to constitute a barrier, tending in a more or less perfect 
degree to keep the brazing solder away from the steel. The 
second form will be found to be nearly free from this defect, 
and for that reason to be preferable. The third, or granulated 
borax, has had all the water driven out of it, and it therefore 
forms an exceedingly perfect covering for the metal. We there- 
fore find that a common practice is to use some of the calcined 
borax and some of the melted borax, with which the joint may 
be covered. The principal work done by the borax is to pro- 
tect the joint or surfaces of the metal from the action of the 
flame, so that when the solder is applied the surface will be per- 
fectly clean, and a metallic union or contact may therefore be 
formed between the meeting surfaces of the steel with the 
solder interposed as the binding material. It will therefore be 
understood that the perfection of the work depends in a large 
and perhaps vital degree upon the true cleanliness of the two 
surfaces at the time of the application of the solder 

The principal reason for using borax is because it is not 
dissipated or thrown off by the high heat necessary for brazing, 
in addition to the perfect protection it affords. The application 
of both the borax and solder are continued until the joint has, 
in the opinion of the workman, been covered in all its parts by 
melted solder. It is at this point that the experience of the 
workman and his skill in the application come to his assistance. 
He can readily tell by observation when the outer joints 
have been united, but the inner and hidden surfaces he can only 
estimate from his past work and the general appearance from 
the outside. There is no absolutely sure rule that will enable 
one unskilled in this work to make a joint of the best kind. As 
we have said previously, the best drill is to braze a couple of 
tubes and then saw them apart parallel with the axis, and ob- 
serve the quality of the work in that way. A few examples of 
this kind would give the workman a knowledge that he can 
acquire in no other way. 



46 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



It must be remembered that if the steel is heated to too 
high a temperature, or if it is exposed for a long time to a com- 
paratively low heat, its quality will be impaired. The work 
should therefore be done as quickly as possible. By this it is 
not meant that the joint should be placed in an intensely hot 
flame in order to bring it rapidly to a brazing temperature. 
This might result in injury to the outer tube. The joint 
should be heated just sufficiently for brazing, and it should be 
heated only long enough to do the work. 

Brazing Solder or Spelter. 

The principal ingredients of brazing solder, hard solder or 
spelter, terms which appear to be used indiscriminately, are 




Fig. 10.— A Simple Bunsen Burner. 



copper and zinc, the proportion of the latter governing the 
hardness of the solder. 

As brazing solder can be purchased of any desired compo- 
sition, according to the work in hand, it is not necessary to dis- 
cuss the different kinds. 

Cleaning after Brazing. 

Looking at the brazed frame after it has come from the 
brazing furnace it will be noticed that the flux has flowed 
over the surface and covered parts adjacent to the joint, but 
having no connection with the joint proper. It is of the greatest 



BRAZING. 



47 



importance to remove every trace of flux, and in doing this it 
is found to be a very common practice to use the sand blast, in 
which sharp sand is blown against the joint by means of air 
under pressure. This removes the flux and leaves the surface 
clean for the reception of the enamel. If the flux is not very 
thoroughly removed the enamel will peel off at those points. 
The surplus solder is removed by filing and the use of emery 
cloth. 

A Simple Bunsen Burner. 

The Bunsen burner shown in Fig. 10 is easy to make and 
should cost only a trifling sum. To the ends of the bib cock, 




Fig. 11.— Convenient Heating Apparatus. 



which can be bought of any plumber, are attached rubber tubes 
for the gas and air. The efficiency of the burner would be in- 
creased by screwing a short length of pipe on the outlet. In 
using this burner care must be taken to so regulate the air 
pressure that the gas will not be forced back. When the air 
pressure is largely in excess of the gas pressure the burner will 
be useless, as the air will choke off the gas. 



4S 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



Two Convenient Bunsen Burners. 



The two arrangements shown in Figs, n and 12 will be 
found very convenient for brazing small articles, or for solder- 
ing. The gas and air pipes are several feet long, thereby per- 
mitting the flame to be taken to the work, say to a Bicycle 
mounted on a stand. From an ordinary Bunsen burner, Fig. ir, 
lead two rubber tubes which are connected to the gas and com- 




ing. 12.— Convenient Blow Pipe. 



pressed air pipes which project from the wall at the back of the 
bench. The tubes are long, so that the flame can be applied to 
work placed several feet from the permanent supply pipes. On 
the bench is a flat piece of cast iron, upon which the fire bricks 
are arranged in the way best calculated to confine the flame to 



BRAZING. 49 

the piece to be heated. A curved tin screen is placed on the 
bench back of the bricks. With this appliance any small job 
requiring heat can be performed. Heat is required by so many 
of the operations of building and repairing Bicycles that the 
handy arrangement of a burner is of importance. 

In the next burner, Fig. 12, a rubber hose pipe leads from 
the gas bracket at the side of the wall above the bench to the 
blow pipe. This is shown by the heavy black line. The air 
pipe, indicated by the two light lines, extends from the blower 
placed on top of the bench to the blow pipe. The blower is 
driven from an overhead shaft, as indicated. As both the air 
and gas pipes are 10 feet long the flame can be taken to any job 
in the clear space in the middle of the room. In many instances 
this is of great importance, as the work is made easier by 
bringing the flame to the job instead of having to carry the job 
to the flame. 

It should be noted that the most essential difference be- 
tween these two arrangements is in the source of the air supply. 
In the first it is obtained from a tank or reservoir which is filled 
with air, kept at a uniform pressure. In the second form the 
air is obtained from the blower, which is only in operation 
when the flame is needed. The first plan, of having the air 
always on tap, so to speak, is by far the better method, but as 
it requires an air pump, or pressure blower and a tank, it can- 
not be placed in every shop 



CHAPTER IV. 



Tempering aurad Case HardeiraSinig, 



Tempering and case hardening are important operations, 
which find a wide application in the repair shop. We shall 
first take up the subject of tempering and follow with case 
hardening. 

To properly temper a piece of steel requires skill and long 
experience in order to obtain the best results, and although the 
novice cannot expect to reach the most perfect results at 
first, he can by repeated trials and by closely following certain 




Fig. 1.— Reamer. 

necessary directions produce tools having cutting edges that 
will answer every purpose. Different grades and kinds of steel 
require different treatment ; to determine beforehand exactly 
how to temper a tool made of steel, with the working of which 




& 




n 



Fig. 



-Lathe Tool. 



the operator is not familiar, calls for unusual skill on the part 
of a man who has had a long and wide experience. 

The tools shown in Figs, i, 2 and 3, representing respect- 
ively a reamer, diamond point and round nose lathe tool, 



TEMPERING AND CASE HARDENING. $1 

and twist drill, were selected only to point the directions 
following. 

The first requirement is to heat the tool thoroughly and 
evenly, and not to any greater temperature than is needed to 
produce the object aimed at. A few trials with the same quality 
of steel will show which color, as indicating the degree of heat, 
will best serve the purpose. By heating evenly, we mean that 
sharp points such as a a in Figs, i and 3, and d in Fig. 2, should 
not be heated before the thicker body of the metal. If the tool 
is plunged into a hot fire such points will be unduly heated and 
burned and the tool ruined. Further, heating should be carried 
forward regularly and without interruption, and the tool should 
not be subjected to drafts of air. Rapid heating and cooling 
are injurious. 

The forge fire (coke or charcoal) arranged for tempering 
and case hardening is shown in Fig. 4. The lever controlling 



Fig S— Twist Drill. 

the damper in the air blast pipe is shown to the right, and is 
within easy reach of the workman. The coal is banked up so 
as to form a dome, upon the top and sides of which are placed 
curved plates of thin iron, which serve to hold the coal in place. 
After the fire has been well started it is dug out at the front 
so as to form an opening in the incandescent coal. Care should 
be taken to leave plenty of coal above the tuyere openings. 
The pieces to be treated are then inserted in this opening, where 
they are completely surrounded by, but are not in direct con- 
tact with, the live coal. 

The tools are first hardened by heating to a cherry red and 
then plunging in water. The edges are now so hard that a file 
will not touch them, and they are also too brittle for service. 
They are then heated to soften them, and it is this subsequent 
heating which governs the degree of hardness or temper of the 
tool, which is shown by the color. It is impossible to give ex- 



5 2 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



plicit directions which maybe followed to the . letter ; experi- 
ments must be made in order to become acquainted with the 
colors and their temperatures which give the most satisfactory 
results. 

Case Hardening. 

In case hardening the surface of the metal is made so ex- 
tremely hard that a file will make no impression. While the 
hardest part is at the surface, the process can be so modified as 
to change the character of the metal to a considerable depth. 




Fig, 4.— Forge Arranged for Tempering. 



The method of doing this work is very simple, and with a little 
practice any article can be reliably hardened to the extent re- 
quired. There are many parts of a Bicycle which can be hard- 
ened to advantage, such as screw threads, nuts, ball runs and 
similar parts which are subjected to wear either in the ordinary 



TEMPERING AND CASE HARDENING. 53 

use of the wheel or in making necessary adjustments. It should 
be remembered that the chemicals here used are violent poisons, 
and they should therefore be handled cautiously. 

In case hardening in an open fire, clean coke or charcoal 
should be used. A Eunsen flame, similar to those before de- 
scribed in the chapter on brazing, can be employed. In either 
case it is essential to heat the article slowly and uniformly to a 
dull red. If possible, the article should be completely sur 
rounded by the fire, so that all parts may be equally subjected 
to the action of the heat. The best results cannot be obtained if 
the piece is heated only on one side at a time. As in tempering, 
the work should under no circumstances be made too hot, as 
there is danger of injuring the steel and as too great heat will 
not accomplish the object. 

Two methods are here given. After the piece has been 
heated as described, it is removed from the fire and well coated 
with prussiate of potash. It is then held in the fire for about 
30 seconds and then immersed in clean cold water. This 
method will produce colors similar to those obtained when 
case hardening with bone. If the piece has not been evenly 
heated throughout the potash will stick and fail to flow over 
the surface properly and the colors will not be present. For a 
greater and deeper degree of hardness the piece is first coated 
with cyanide of potassium and then the prussiate of potash is 
applied as before. To produce a dark gray color the piece is 
cooled in salt water. 

Still another method of case hardening may be accomplished 
as follows : The pieces to be hardened are packed in a cast iron 
box in which is first put a layer of granulated bone, which can be 
purchased at almost any hardware store, then a layer of the 
work to be hardened, then more broken bone, and so on until 
the box has been filled. The top is then put on and the joint 
closed down with clay. It is required in using this method 
to keep the pieces at least ]A or ^ inch away from the sides, 
top and bottom of the box. The box is then placed in the fire 
and heated to a good cherry red for from three to four hours, 
according to the depth of hardening required, and then the 
whole contents is dumped into cool soft water. 

In order to produce color the bone should be thoroughly 



54 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



charred. This can be done by putting it into a cast iron box 
and subjecting it to a brisk heat until it has been transformed 
into charcoal. After the bone has been charred the work is 
packed for hardening, as above described. In this, as in all other 
processes, great care should be used in heating, but particularly 
where color is desired. If carried too far there will be no color. 
The best results can be obtained by heating to a cherry red and 
maintaining that degree without intermission. 

For those who have had but little experience in hardening 
the telltale piece is recommended. This consists of a piece of 







Fig. 5. — Unique Case Hardening Furnace. 

round iron as nearly the size of the work to be hardened as pos- 
sible, that reaches down into the center of the box and extends 
through the hole in the cover just enough to make a good grip 
for a pair of tongs. When it is thought that the work has been 
in long enough the telltale is removed without disturbing the 
pot and plunged immediately into cold water. If the telltale 
shows the work to be hardened to a sufficient depth the box is 



TEMPERING AND CASE HARDENING. 55 

to be dumped as mentioned. It is, of course, to be understood 
that this method applies more particularly to cases where many 
comparatively small pieces are to be case hardened and that it 
cannot be economically employed where only one or two speci- 
mens are to be treated. 

Unique Case Hardening Furnace. 

A simple, cheap and effective case hardening furnace for 
small articles may be made out of two tin cans and a Bunsen 
burner, as shown in Fig. 5. 

The tomato can had a hole cut through the closed end for 
the flame to come through, and was nicked around the edge of 



Fig. 6.— Ladle. 

the open lower end to let the air in and was inverted over the 
Bunsen burner. The tobacco box with a wide nick in one side 
was placed bottom up on the tomato can. The purpose of the 
tobacco box was to shade the light and keep off drafts and the 
tomato can was a convenient stand to hold the box above the 
burner. A long wire twisted about the thread of the key which 



Fig. 7.— Home Made Tap. 

was to be hardened made a good holder, and a narrow piece of 
tin, Fig. 6, served as a ladle for applying the prussiate of potash. 
The steel key was heated to a cherry red and kept at that 
temperature for a minute or two to let it " soak " — that is, heat 
through. Then the prussiate of potash, in fine powder, was 
ladled on, the work being kept in the flame all the time. The 
potash will form a dark colored coating all over the steel, which 
must be plunged instantly into cold water on being withdrawn 
from the fire. Try it with a file — if the case hardening is prop- 
erly done the file will not cut it. 



56 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

Home Made Taps. 

Having a full set of dies, it is a simple operation to make 
all the taps required. Taps and dies play an important part in 
the repair shop, and if the former are made during dull spells 
the running expenses of the shop can be reduced considerably. 
They are made of tool steel rods, Fig. 7 representing an actual 
size. The rod is first threaded and then tempered. The 
threaded portion is then ground flat on two opposite sides, 
about two-thirds of the diameter of the rod being removed. 
The point is ground on four sides, as shown, to provide easy 
entrance into the hole. The tap is then tempered. 



CHAPTER V. 

The Frame. 

The accidents possible to a Bicycle frame may be divided 
into two classes : First, those by which one of the turned 01 
forged steel parts may be broken at the socket, as shown in 
Fig. i, or the crank shaft bracket, as shown in Fig. 2; second 
the buckling or bending of a tube to such an extent that it 
cannot be restored to its first strength. 

The breaking of either of the parts A B is now an exceed- 
ingly rare occurrence. The design, material, and methods of 




Fig. 1. — Socket Head Broken. 

manufacture have been brought to the highest degree of per- 
fection. While the weight has been reduced, seemingly, to the 
lowest possible limit, the metal has been so distributed as to 
make these the strongest parts of the Bicycle. This is evi- 
dently as it should be, because their integrity is vital to the 
success of the wheel, and since they are points sustaining the 
heaviest strains. For these reasons any weakness or flaw in 
them is bound to make its appearance at the first opportunity 



5$ BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

To repair the break shown in Fig. i a new socket must be 
brazed in the upper and lower tubes. 

There are no good methods of repairing breaks of 
this particular character except by providing new parts. Braz- 
ing cannot be resorted to, and the introduction of inner tubes 
and then brazing is delusive, because the surfaces in contact 
are not large enough to have the requisite strength. 

In the making of this frame the tubes enter the socket a 
short distance, and holes are drilled through both tube and 




Fig. 2.— Crank Shaft Bracket Broken. 



socket to receive pins which hold the parts together while they 
are being brazed. The enamel is scraped off until the pins are 
located, when they are drilled out. The joint is then heated in 
a brazing furnace or large Bunsen burner until the spelter has 
been melted and the parts can be pulled apart. The tubes are 
then brazed into a new socket. By careful manipulation of 
the flame, and by confining and concentrating it as much as 
possible upon the point to be heated, a single tube can be re- 
moved without hurting the other joints. 

To place a new bracket in the frame B, Fig. 2, all the tubes 
are removed from the broken part in the manner just described. 
They are then pinned in a new bracket and all the joints are- 
brazed at the same heat. 



THE FRAME. 



59 



Holding Frame for Brazing. 

Although the two photographs from which the drawings, 
Figs. 3 and 4, were made were taken in a Bicycle manufacturing 
establishment, and although the devices were designed solely 
for the making of a Bicycle, their value from a repairing shop 
point of view is none the less apparent. The first shows a jig 
designed to hold the tubes forming the front part of the frame 
while they are being drilled and pinned preparatory to brazing 




Fig. 8. — Holding Front Part of Frame. 

The center bar or tube of the frame is held between centers, as 
is also the head socket. This method insures the absolutely 
correct length of the diagonal connecting tubes. While held 
in this jig the tubes are bored and a pin is inserted in each joint 
c hold the parts together while they are being brazed. From 
the jig shown in Fig. 3 the frame passes to the brazing depart- 
ment, where the four joints are brazed. 

Upon the completion of this operation the partially made 
frame is placed in the jig shown in Fig. 4. This, as will be 
seen by consulting the engraving, holds the front head and 
center tube of the frame and also gauges the two forks forming 
the rear of the frame, and holds the entire structure in line 



6o 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



while the rear parts are being drilled and pinned together.' The 
flexible shaft drill for doing this work is shown in the engrav- 
ing. After this the completed frame is taken to the brazing 
department and the remaining joints united. 




Fig. 4-— Holding Frame Complete. 



It is very evident that this device is designed for use only 
in the large works of a Bicycle builder. At the same time these 
jigs can be adapted for use in the repairing shop. If the 
repairer is handling as a specialty only one wheel he can make 



THE FRAME. 6 1 

jigs of this description of hard wood, which will aid him most 
materially in inserting or replacing any one of the tubes of a 
frame. Having a guide of this character to hold the frame 
while he is adjusting the new tube precludes the possibility of 
the frame being out of true when he has finished the job. On 
the face, such appliances as these might not seem to be desir- 
able or expedient, but where a repairing plant is designed for 
quick and accurate work their usefulness is soon felt. 

Restoring a Bent Frame. 

Figs. 5 and 6 show a simple method of bringing the bent 
frame of a lady's Bicycle back to its true form. The frame, 
which originally looked like Fig. 5 appeared as in Fig. 6. First 




Fig. 5. Fig. 6. 

Restoring a Bent Frame. 

two pieces, C, were sawed the same length, and long enough when 
placed together to go in the frame between the head connection 
and seat pillar connection, as per sketch, Fig. 6. By pressing 
these down straight the frame was sprung a trifle in the proper 
direction, then, by putting in a small block between the ends of 
the first boards and thicker blocks after each operation, a very 
good result was obtained in a few moments. This same method 
was made use of afterward in numerous cases without any 
buckled tubes or cracked enamel. 



62 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



Rack for Holding Frames. 

In a large shop, where much work is carried on, the rack 
for holding frames, shown in Fig. 7, will be found very conven- 
ient. Two A-shaped frames are united by top and bottom 
bars, as indicated. On top of the upper bar are placed short 
studs of such size as to enter freely the head socket of the 
frame, the rear portion of which rests upon. the projecting base 
of the rack. A device of this character is of service, as the 




Fig. 7.— Rack for Holding Frames. 

frames are held in such a way that it is next to impossible to 
injure their surfaces. The rack is mounted upon rollers which 
permit of its being readily moved from place to place. 



A Repairing Curiosity. 

We cannot commend the repair job shown in Fig. 8, al- 
though it possesses one redeeming feature — ample strength. 
The work was evidently done by a blacksmith who did not care 
how much he added to the weight of the wheel if he could only 
make it strong. All of the tubes were broken near the bracket. 



THE FRAME. 



63 



A piece of gas pipe was inserted in each tube and the two short 
straps were put on and their ends secured by rivets passing 
through the two single tubes. The two circular braces, made 
of iron about 3-16 inch thick by Yz inch wide, were then placed 




Fig. 8. — -.4 Repairing Curiosity. 



and riveted to all the tubes as indicated. No attempt at artis- 
tic effect was made, unless we except the curve in the two large 
braces. 

riending a Broken Tube. 

As a general rule it is not advisable to attempt to repair a 
buckled or broken tube. The best way is to remove the dam- 
aged tube and put in a new one. But, owing to circumstances 
over which the repairer has no control, it may sometimes be 
necessary to mend a tube which has been broken. The draw- 
ings, Figs. 9 to 12, show how this may be done. If the parts 
have been nicely fitted together and the brazing perfectly per- 
formed, the joint will be strong and durable. When the work 
has been finished, and the tube enameled, there should be no 
outside indication that a repair at that particular point had ever 
been made. This job cannot be hurried ; the fitting should be 
made with the utmost accuracy ; and particular attention should 
be paid to the brazing. 



64 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



Figs. 9 and 10 show a repaired head socket and Fig. 12 a 
repaired center tube which had been broken near the crank 
bracket. In both cases the method of making the repair is the 
same, and in all the drawings the same letters refer to like 
parts. A short section of tube B is fitted in the broken tube C. 





Fig. 9.— Mending a Broken 
Tube. 



Fig. 10. — Vertical Section at Right 
Angles to Fig. 9. 



Before this section is finally put in place a short piece of flat 
steel plate A is brazed inside of it. This plate may be }i or 
3^ 16 inch thick, and its side edges should be filed round so as 
to engage snugly the wall of the tube. The tube B is then put 




Fig. 11.— Cross Section of Repaired Tube. 

in the tube C and the parts brazed. The outside of the joint 
is then smoothed and enameled. 

An important point is the position of the plate A in rela- 
tion to the tube in which it is inserted. In order to do the 



THE FRAME. 



65 



most effective service its plane should be so placed that it will 
the most effectively resist the strains to which the tube may be 
subjected when the Bicycle is in service. In the case of the 
head socket the plate should be at right angles to the plane of 
the fork, as shown in Fig. 10, since the severest strains are in a 




Fig. 12.— Mending a Broken Tube. 



line from front to rear of the wheel. For the same reason the 
plate A in Fig. 12 should be in the plane of the frame consid- 
ered as a whole. 

Straightening a Bent Tube. 

A tube that has been bent slightly can be straightened, but 
a tube that has been bent so that it is buckled cannot be 
brought to its original lines and it should therefore be re- 
placed with a new one. In a buckled tube the metal at the 
inner or concave side of the bend has been distorted to such an 
extent as to most materially lessen its strength, and it may be 
that it has been fractured at this point. One rule, which may 
be considered inflexible and which is rigidly followed by all 
of the leading Bicycle manufacturers is, " never attempt to 
straighten a buckled tube," because the tube has been weak- 
ened and it cannot be relied upon. It may be that there is no 
flaw apparent to the eye, and yet it can be taken for granted 
that the usefulness of that tube has been completely destroyed. 

A pernicious practice, fortunately not very common, is 



66 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

sometimes followed in the attempt to restore a buckled tube. 
In this method the bar is heated, then placed across the anvil 
and struck with a light hammer on the bulging parts of the 
bend, the endeavor being to restore the tube to its first circu- 
lar section. If the buckle has not been of too pronounced a 
character the workman may succeed in making a job appar- 
ently perfect, but he cannot eliminate the weakness caused by 
the undue strain to which the metal has been submitted, nor 
can he overcome the possibly faint hammer marks which will 
eventually show in the enamel. 

A useful tool for straightening a tube which has been bent 
slightly is shown in Fig. 13. The jaws of this pair of tongs 



Fig. 13.— Half Round Tongs. 

are formed with semicircular grooves, as indicated. The middle 
portion of one jaw is recessed to permit the entrance of the 
other, which is of such a length as to fit in the recess. The tube 
is placed in these jaws, and by careful manipulation is brought 
to its original straight condition. 

Another and cruder method consists in resting the tube 
upon two blocks of lead, with the bend uppermost, and then 
striking the bent part with a lead hammer. The best results 
are obtained with a comparatively light hammer, the result 
being more perfect and certain with many light blows than 
with a few heavy ones, and the danger of producing a deep dent 
or a distortion in the opposite direction being proportionately 
lessened. 

Device for Straightening Tubing. 

In the device for straightening tubing shown in Fig. 14, A 
is a brass block curved to 1^ inch so as to pass under any size 
of tubing used in Bicycle work, and is made so as to place a 
strip of leather in it to prevent marring the tube. B B are two 



THE FRAME. 



67 



•slotted brass blocks curved to 1^ inch ; leather to be used here 
also. These blocks are slotted so as to slide on a steel bar, D, 
that they may be used for either a long or short bend. C is the 
frame, made of tool steel, and is about 5 inches in length. The 




Fig. 14. — Device for Straightening Tubing. 

screw placed in the crown presses on the steel bar, raises the 
block (A) and straightens the tubing. 

Truing Up a Frame. 

Although, even in the building of a Bicycle, extreme care 
is exercised in making all the parts accurately to gauge, the 




Fig. 15.— Holding the Frame for Truing Up. 



68 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

frame must be trued up after it has been finished. If the 
manufacturer finds this necessary, it is certainly essential for 
the ordinary repairer, who has not the opportunity of using 
parts made by the thousand and known to be alike. The de- 
vice shown in Fig. 15 is designed to hold the frame while it is 
being brought to its correct form. It is secured to the edge of 
a stout bench, and consists of an upright curved arm, in the 
upper end of which is a stud carrying one end of a long, straight 




Fig. 16.— Gauge for Truing Up Frame. 

rod, which is free to be swung up and down in a plane at right 
angles with the edge of the bench. Hinged to the foot of the 
curved arm is a second arm, which is formed of two parts fitted 
to slide upon each other so that the length of this arm can be 
adjusted to fit the frame to be tested. At the lower end of 
the second arm are two upwardly projecting lugs, formed with 
holes to receive the bolt passing through the crank shaft 
bracket of the frame. The forward end of the frame is secured 
in the angle of the arms by a cross bar held by a screw, as 
shown. The frame is thus held rigidly. 

To test the frame a bar is inserted in the head socket and 
another in the diagonal tube. The swinging bar is then 
brought down, and if it touches both the upright bars their 
whole length it is known that the head is in line with the center 
tube, and that both are in line with the center of the rear end 
of the frame. If the swinging bar, being placed as shown in 
the drawing, touches only the bar in the head, then a lever is 
so placed in the frame that the head may be moved forward, or 
toward the reader. In short, the frame is bent in the direction 
required to bring the two bars in the same plane. 

The next engraving, Fig. 16, shows a gauge inserted in the 
rear end of the frame. This gauge is "[-shaped, the head of 
the J occupying the place of the axle of the wheel. The stem 



THE FRAME. 69 

of the gauge is formed of a bar upon which slides a tube having 
a short pin extending across it at the center. The two side 
bars of the frame are bent until the distances between them 
and the ends of the cross pin are equal, The gauge is then 
swung over, and the operation repeated between the other two 
side bars. These two operations insure the proper alignment 
of the several parts of the frame with the center" of the rear 

wheel. 

Truing a Frame witha Straight Edge. 

Another method of truing a frame is shown in Fig. 17. 
A bar, A, is placed in the head socket and this is lined, by the 




Fig. 17. — Truing a Frame with a Straight Edge. 

eye, with the center tube. The frame is sprung as required 
until the two correspond. The object attained by introducing 
the bar is the practical lengthening of the socket, thereby ob- 
taining a longer line over which to sight. 

To find whether the socket and center tube lie in the same 
plane as the center of the rear end of the frame the straight 
edge B is employed. This is held against one s de of the 
socket and center bar, and the distance from it to C measured. 
It is then held against the opposite side and the distance to D 
measured. The frame is bent until these measurements coin- 
cide. 



70 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

Truing a Frame with a Cord. 

The following method, Fig. 18, of truing a frame is very- 
similar to the one just described. Instead of a straight edge a 
cord is employed. One end is tied to the lower rear end C of 
the frame ; the cord is then passed around the head A and 
brought back and secured to the opposite rear end D. The 
distance from the cord to the tube B is then measured on both 
sides and the frame is bent until they equal each other, as in 
the former case. This plan has one important advantage as 
compared with the one using a straight edge — the cord remains 
in place until the work has been finished, and the measurements 
can be more quickly taken. 




Fig. 18.— Truing a Frame with a Cord. 

Truing a Bicycle. 

Testing a Bicycle to ascertain if the two wheels tread*, or 
follow each other properly in line, is shown in Fig. 19. The 
operation is very simple and may be carried on without re- 
moving either of the wheels from the frame. The rear wheel- 
is first trued in the way described in previous pages, so that 
it revolves in a plane midway between the two side bars of the 
frame. The frame is then to be tested in order to ascertain if 
the center or seat bar is in line with the head. To find if the 
two wheels revolve in the same plane, the Bicycle is first placed 
in a vise which grasps the crank shaft, as shown. Two strings 
are then held against or tied around the tire of the rear wheel 



THE FRAME. 



71 



at C and G. The upper string is then passed along the line 
D E, and is held against the front of the front wheel at F. The 
other string follows the line H I, and is held against the front 
wheel at J. There are thus two points of contact of each string 
with each wheel. It is evident that, the strings being tightly 
drawn, if they touch boih wheels at four points, D E I H, the 
wheels are perfectly true and in line. If the front wheel forces 
the upper line out at E so that it does not touch the rear wheel 




Fig. 19. — Truing a Bicycle. 



at D, and if the lower line fails to touch the front wheel at I, 
then the lower part of the front wheel should be pulled toward 
the operator. When the reverse is the case and the front wheel 
pushes the lower line out at I, but does not touch the upper line 
at E, the bottom of the wheel must be forced away from the 
operator. By repeating these operations, and frequently testing 
with the strings, the two wheels may be brought into their true 
position in relation to each other and to the frame. 

Table for Testing a Frame. 

The table shown in Fig. 20 is designed for testing any kind 
of a frame, or, in other words, for ascertaining if all the parts 
of the frame are perfectly in line, and if not, for finding out 
which particular part is out of true. The table indicated con- 
sists of a perfectly flat or true cast iron top, mounted on suit- 
able legs. At one end (the left hand in the engraving) are two 



72 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

standards designed to hold between them the head socket. 
Similar standards are placed about in the center of the table for 
holding the center bar of the frame. Simple gauges are then 
used for testing. The standards between which the frame is 
held are formed with holes in their upper parts in which a 
bar slides freely. The inner ends of these bars are made cone 
shaped, so as to enter the tubes of the frame. 

In making a device of this description the principal consid- 
eration is to have the holes in the upper parts of the standards 
exactly parallel with the surface of the table, and also to have 
all of the four holes at exactly the same distance above the 
table. If these requirements are strictly complied with it is 
evident that the two tubes by which the frame is held in the 
standards will be exactly parallel with the table, and also that if 
the frame is true a plane passing through each of the four holes 
in the standards will divide it exactly in the center. Therefore, 
by gauging the several parts of the frame, taking the table as a 
base to work from, any inaccuracy, no matter how slight, will 
be pointed out. Setting the gauge at each point of each of the 
tubes will indicate any distortion or irregularity in the tube 
and also in the frame as a whole. 

The gauges resemble, it may be said, in their application, 
inside and outside calipers. One is shown in position at the rear 
forks and another midway between the forks and the top of the 
center tube. These gauges are nothing but blocks of wood, the 
outside gauge being formed in its upper part with an elongated 
recess, which is applied to the part of the frame it is intended 
to measure. The inside gauge is formed with a projection on 
its upright. In making these gauges the center of the recess 
of the outside gauge and the center of the projecting part of 
the inside gauge should be exactly equal in distance from the 
table, when the gauge is placed in its operating position, to the 
distance from the center of the holes of the standards to the 
table. Applying either one of these gauges to any part of the 
frame and noting the difference in distance between that part 
of the frame and the top and bottom of the gauge will in- 
dicate the direction in which the frame must be pulled in order 
to bring it true. 



THE FRAME. 



73 



Particular attention has been called to this table be- 
cause it can be made to serve in place of the jig, Fig. 4, 
page 6o, and further than this, by making the standards of 
ample hight and by arranging one of the center standards so 
that it can be moved to different positions, the table can be made 
to accommodate any Bicycle frame on the market. In order to 
make one of the center standards adjustable, small holes could 
be bored through the table, and by means of a bolt passing 
through any particular hole the standard could be placed in 
any desired position, and could therefore be made to take in a 
frame of any length, from the head socket to the center tube, 
and also any length of center tube. 

To use the table as a jig fur the assembling of an entirely 
new frame, or for holding an old frame during the insertion of 
any particular tube required for repair, it would only be neces- 




Fig. 20.—T<Lble for Test inn a Frame. 



sary to adjust the sliding bars in the standards so that they 
would be in line and so that their conical ends would enter the 
head socket and center tubes. Then the boring and pinning, 
preparatory to brazing, could be performed precisely in the 
same way as in the jigs formerly mentioned, page 59. Where 
a cast iron top cannot be conveniently obtained a hard wood 
table, built up of pieces glued together, similar in every respect 
to the small tables sometimes used on small circular and band 
saws, could be substituted. This table, in order to insure a per- 



74 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



fectly plane surface, should be formed of thin strips glued to- 
gether in the usual way. Made after this fashion it would serve 
the same purpose as the iron top and should prove durable and 
capable of good work. 



CHAPTER VI. 



To restore a fork which has been distorted by a blow or an 
unusual strain to its original curve requires more care than in 
the case of a bent tube of a frame, because the two legs of the 
fork must be perfectly parallel when the work is finished. If 
the leg is bent sidewise it can be held in a vise the faces of 
which are covered with a soft material, or provided with pine 




Fig. 1.— Restoring a Fork. 



false faces, and then sprung back into place. When the legs are 
bent in the opposite direction they can be restored by following 
the plan shown in Fig. i. This consists of an anvil upon which 
are placed two blocks of lead upon which the fork is placed, the 
blows to bring the legs back to their proper form being deliv- 
ered by a third block of lead or a lead hammer. This method, 
like every other when a blow is struck upon a tube, must be 
carefully performed in order not to dent the tube. 

Testing a Fork. 

A simple way of ascertaining whether the legs of the fork 
are parallel or not is shown in Fig. 2. The fork is held by the 
shank in a vise, as shown. A straight edge is then placed near 
the head of the fork and another across the ends of the legs. 
By bringing the two edges of the straight edges in line with the 



76 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



eye any irregularity will be made perfectly plain and can be 
remedied by hammering, as just mentioned, or by springing the 
legs in the direction in which they should lie. 

Although the legs of the fork may be parallel with each 
other, the shank may not be in a central line between them. To 




Fig, 2.— Testing a Fork. 



test this a straight edge is held against one side of the shank 
and the distance from its edge to the end of the leg upon that 
side measured. The straight edge is then placed against the 
opposite side of the shank and the distance to the end of the 
other leg measured. If these two measurements are alike the 
fork may be considered as true in every respect. If they are 




Fig. 3.— Pulling a Bent Fork Into Position. 



THE FORK. 



77 



not the shank is held in the vise and the fork sprung in the 
direction required until they are. Finally, and as a further 
check, the wheel should be placed in the fork and the distance 
from the rim to the sides measured. 

Pulling a Bent Fork into Position. 

Pulling a fork, the legs of which had been bent near the 
shank, back to their normal position, is shown in Fig. 3. The 
fork was first reversed in the frame, since the bend was toward 
the rear, and it was consequently necessary to apply the force 
in the opposite direction. A block of wood was then fitted be- 
tween the ends of the legs to prevent their being brought to- 




Fig. 4- — Bending Forks. 

gether. A rope was then passed through the holes in the fork, 
carried around the hub and the ends tied together. The rope 
was finally twisted by means of the stick, as shown. In this 
way the fork was brought back easily and quickly. While a 
tremendous strain may be brought upon the frame, there is but 
little danger of injuring it if the work be judiciously done. 

Bending Forks. 

A method of bending tubes, and one that is applicable par- 
ticularly to the restoring of deformed forks, is illustrated in 
Fig. 4. This plan obviates all danger of denting the fork inci- 
dent to the use of a hammer or by the methods formerly 



78 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

described of striking with lead blocks. It depends solely upon 
pressure, which, by means of a screw, can be regulated so as to 
fit existing conditions. Resting on a base, A, is a block of 
wood, B, the upper surface of which is inwardly curved. The 
upper block C is also of wood and is outwardly curved as 
represented. An iron yoke extends upward from the base, and 
is provided in its top cross piece with a threaded hole to receive 
the screw D, which is operated by the handle bar. The blocks 
C and B will have to be cut according to the curvature desired. 
In every case the curve of the upper block should be made on 
a radius shorter than that of the lower one. On account of the 
elasticity of steel, whether a fork or a plain piece of tube is to 
be operated upon, it is essential that the curvature of the lower 
block should be so sharp, or of so short a radius, as to bend the 
tube more than to the curvature it is desired it should per- 
manently assume. This will be understood from the fact that 
it is necessary to give the tube a permanent set, and that this 
set should occur at the point of proper curvature. In order to 
do this it is requisite to bend the tube a little further than the 
curvature desired. It is apparent that it is not really important 
to have two blocks for every different curve desired. By prop- 
erly packing the outer parts of the surface of the lower curve 
and the center of the upper curve it may be possible to produce 
almost any curve desired. 

It is evident that this method can be modified considerably 
and that a vise can be arranged to do the work of the yoke and 
screw. The two curved blocks B and C can be fitted to the 
jaws of the vise and the pressure required obtained in the usual 
way. 

Restoring a Twisted Fork. 

A twisted or bent fork may be restored in the following 
way : A piece of hard wood, 2x10 inches and 34 inches long, 
is trued up on all sides. Lengthwise through the middle a dis- 
tinct line is to be drawn, L, Fig. 5, with a scratch awl and 
well marked with ink or paint. A square with scale, S, and a 
separate steel scale, T, Figs. 6 and 7, are also required. Bore a 
hole in the testing board to hang it up by when not in use. 

Now, to remedy the bent fork remove the front wheel, then 



THE FORK. 



79 



the handle bar from its socket in the front fork shaft, and if 
the head cone is not accurately adjusted, do so. Revolve the 
front fork in its bearings, and if the shank is sprung the man- 
ner in which the bearings work will let you form an idea as ta 
the extent of the bend in the shank. Remove the front fork 
and lay upon the center line of the board, as in Figs. 6 and 7, 

IS 




Fig. 5. 




Fig. 6. 




Fisr. 




Fig. 8. 
Restoring a Twisted Fork. 

carefully providing for the same measurement of either half at 
D and D, Fig. 6. 

Now, by placing the square S, Fig. 6, all along the fork 
shank, as indicated by points A. and B, alternately on both sides, 
and by measuring the distance from the lower end of the blade 
of the square to the center of the line L, even a very small vari- 
ation of the shank from a straight line corresponding with L, 



So BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

can be detected. The scale should read alike in all measure- 
ments opposite to each other along the shank. Any bend in the 
shank in a horizontal plane can be detected by using the steel 
scale, as indicated in Fig. 7. If the curve of both fork sides is 
alike then the scale on the square should read alike with the 
fork in position, as shown in Fig. 8, and at a point in line H H 
with the center of the eyes in the fork ends. To straighten the 
shank procure a block of wood, place it under the fork crown 
at F, Fig. 7, and interposing another smaller block strike the 
shank wherever required along the upper surface where the scale 
rests in Fig. 7. If to be bent in the other direction, as in Fig. 8^ 
only a block to receive direct blows is required, as the fork is 
already supported at the crown. Should the shank not lay 
properly on the line L when placed upon the board, as in Fig. 
6, it must be straightened on a large block of wood held in one 
hand by the fork sides and the blows administered with a raw- 
hide mallet. The fork sides at their ends should not be spread 
any more than is required to just accommodate the hub, with 
axle and cones, and make a good fit. 

See that the two inner faces of the fork ends lie parallel to 
each other and at an angle of 90 degrees to the surface of the 
test board when the fork is in position, Fig. 8. These last con- 
ditions can be verified by the square, placed on the test board 
in different positions. 

If the fork sides require more or less bend these conditions 
can be brought about by rigidly clamping the shank in a vise 
lined with a set of stout hard wood jaws, J, as illustrated in Fig. 
9, and by applying a suitable lever, L, resting against one side 
of the fork crown and against a block of wood near the end of 
the fork sides, as shown in the engraving. In bending the fork 
in the opposite direction the lever will be applied in the reversed 
sense, but in place of the block a steel rod of proper size will 
have to be passed through the eyes of both the fork ends for the 
lever to rest upon. For this style of bend manipulations will 
perhaps be easier if the shank is clamped into the bore H of 
the wooden jaws. 

The upright position was selected as being easier of illustra- 
tion. It will be understood that the shank is let into the jaws 
and one or more holes can be bored into them where they join, 



thz ?:-Rt. 



Si 



to accommodate iifferent sizes of tubing. If expense is no 
object, the jaws can be cast of brass, to wooden pattern, and a 




Fig. 9. — Holdings "iseforB* 



spring on either side of the jaws secures them against accidental 
displacement when the vise is opened. A moderately short 



S2 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



bend is readily brought back to the proper shape by clamping 
the fork side horizontally between copper jaws and using the 
shank as a lever. 

Forks Bent Unevenly. 

A rider runs into an obstruction with his front wheel and 
bends back the forks, one being bent back a trifle more than 




Fig. 10, 



Fig. 11. Fig. 12. 

Forks Bent Unevenly. 



o? 




Fig. 13. 



the other, F in Fig. io. After bringing both forks forward so 
they are apparently straight, and lining them up in the usual 
way so the axle is parallel with the fork crown, the wheel 
is put in, and it is noticed that the wheel does not center in the 
fork, but is one sided, as at G in Fig. n. This has been very 
poorly repaired by filing the hole up higher in the lower parr 



THE FORK. 



83 



of the fork, where the axle goes in, as in Fig. 12, which will 
only allow the axle to loosen easily after having been adjusted, 
and is not a thorough and permanent repair. 

On close examination of the above fork it will be noticed 
that the curve of the two is not alike, and the one that has the 
least curve is the one that has the tire too close to it, and is 
generally the damaged fork. This difference should have been 
made more prominent in the drawing. 

The correct way to center the wheel in this pair of forks is 
to bend this damaged fork back to its original curve, or as near 
as possible to it, until the wheel centers itself, as by bending 





Fig, 14. 



Fig. 15. 



Bending a Fork in a Vise. 



the curve shorter again it shortens the distance between the 
axle and crown, as in Fig. 13, at S, and throws the wheel tire 
further away irom the fork side. 

This should be done after the forks are lined up sideways, 
and before they are more than approximately lined up longitu- 
dinally, otherwise it would throw them out of line again in that 
direction. This may be done in the vise by using jaws as fol- 
lows, and not injure the enamel. 

Bending a Fork in a Vise. 

For a backward bend a copper jaw at H and leather at I, 
as in Fig. 14 ; for a forward bend by a copper jaw at J, and 



8 4 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



both copper and leather jaw at K, as in Fig. 15, the leather 
jaw being next to the enameled surface, otherwise the fork will 
cut through and injure itself upon the sharp corner of the vise 
jaw. 

Mending a Broken Fork. 

In the fork illustrated in Figs. 16 and 17 both prongs were 
broken off through the holes, as indicated by the broken line 
A B. With a hack saw the ends were cut off about on the line 
C D, making the cut at right angles to the curved center line of 
the fork. Then two pieces of steel about 4 inches long and 




O 



■ \ 




Fig 16. 



Fig. 17. 



Mending a Broken Fork. 



}i inch thick, Fig. 17, were procured. With abreast drill holes 
were bored for the wheel axle, and from the shoulders for the 
shortened ends of the fork, the pieces were filed to the size and 
shape of the inside of the prongs, the ends of the pieces being 
rounded, as shown, to guide them in straight. 

These pieces were driven in tight, care being taken not to 
have them so tight as to unduly strain the metal of the fork, 
then putting the wheel in place to see that the axle holes were 
placed exactly right. Two rivet holes were drilled through 
each prong and slightly countersunk on each side of the prongs, 
and tapped. The rivets were then screwed in and finished flush 



THE FORK. 



85 



on each side. A little enamel completed the job, and no one 
would ever notice the repair unless attention was called to it, 
and it proved entirely satisfactory after a season of hard 
service. 

Gauge for Truing a Fork. 

A very simple gauge of great use in truing a fork or in 
boring the holes in the ends of the legs, if one or both legs have 




Fig. 18. — Gauge for Truing a Fori . 



been renewed, is shown in Fig. 18. The shank of the fork is 
clamped in a V-shaped groove at one end of the gauge The 
ends of the fork enter slots in the opposite end of the gauge. 
The fork is held securely by a clamp at about its center. Held 
in this way the ends of the fork may be drilled, as shown in the 
engraving, the drill passing through hardened bushings. The 
center line of the holes must be at right angles with the center 
of the fork. 



CHAPTER VII. 



The Wheel. 



The device shown in Fig. i is intended for holding the 
wheel while the spoke nipples are being tightened up and the 
spokes brought under tension. While such a device is pecul- 
iarly applicable to the needs of the manufacturer it would be 
found to be of great service in the ordinary repair shop, as it is 




Fig. 1. — Assembling a Wheel. 

so simple in construction and as it is so conveniently operated. 
It is not intended, with the use of this machine, to bring all of 
the spokes to their final perfect condition of strain. 

The hub of the wheel is placed over a rod projecting from 
the center of the revolving table and the rim is laid on the 



THE WHEEL. 87 

frame, about in the position it will occupy when all the spokes 
are in place. The wheel is then " strung up " as it is termed, 
each spoke being placed in its correct position. The operator 
then screws up all the nipples, one after another, and without 
gauging gets the wheel as nearly true as possible. 

The apparatus itself consists of the table mounted upon a 
spindle, about which it is free to revolve, it being considered 
better to turn the entire table, and so bring nipple after nipple 
within reach, than to turn the wheel itself, particularly when 
the spokes are all loose. 

This is another one of those devices upon which a good 
many dollars could be expended and much time taken in con- 
structing it, while at the same time an equally efficient one 
could be built in half a day and with an expenditure of only a 
few cents.. Little devices like this, which can be made by the 
Bicycle repairer himself at odd times, are in a great many cases 
of much more real value than the same thing would be if made 
to order and by an expert. 

Frame for Stringing Up a Wheel. 

A frame for holding the rim of a wheel while the spokes 
are being inserted and tightened is shown in Fig. 2. The frame 
is so formed as to be carried by a Bicycle stand, and is shown 
in its working position in the engraving on page 29. It is a 
more elaborate affair than the one just described, and is de- 
signed to bring the wheel much nearer its true form. It con- 
sists first of a yoke or oblong shaped frame carrying a flat cast 
iron ring, as indicated. Projecting in the same line from the 
side bars of the frame are two adjustable centers, A and B, the 
inner ends of which are cone shaped, so as to enter and hold 
the hub. These two centers may be placed at any distance 
apart in order to hold a wide or narrow hub, and by means of 
set screws passing through their sleeves may be held in any re- 
quired position. The frame carries in a plane perpendicular 
to its own plane a flat cast iron ring 23 inches inside diameter 
and 32 inches outside. One face of this ring is turned perfectly 
flat and is in line with the center of the carrying frame. Con- 
centric circles % inch apart are marked on the surface of this 



88 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



ring. At four equidistant points on the face of the ring are the 
adjustable stops C, which consist merely of slotted pieces of 
iron held in place by set screws. 

In stringing up the wheel the hub is first placed between 
the centers A and B. The stops C are then adjusted so as to 
hold the rim firmly and at the same time in a position concen- 
tric with the hub, after which the spokes are inserted and 
screwed up in the usual way. It will be observed from the di- 
mensions given that this device permits of the handling of all 




Fig. 2. — Frame for Stringing up a Wheel. 

the ordinary sizes of rims, and since the rim and its hub are 
held in their true positions the spokes can be so tightened that 
the final adjustment and actual truing up of the wheel will oc- 
cupy but little time. 

Truing a Wheel. 

Two methods are shown in Figs. 3 and 4 of truing up the 
front and rear wheels of a Bicycle. In the first engraving the 
wheel is shown mounted in its own fork, the same as if for ac- 
tual service. The shank of the fork is grasped in a vise, which 
should preferably be of the swivel type in order that the jaws 
may be brought in a line perpendicular to the edge of the 
bench, so as to bring the wheel out clear of the bench and 
thereby permit its free revolution and convenient handling. 



THE WHEEL. 89 

The wheel is turned, and a piece of chalk, rested on one of the 
legs of the fork, is held alongside of the rim so as to touch that 
part of the wheel projecting toward the side against which the 
chalk is held. The mark thus made on the rim serves as a 
guide for the workman, who then loosens or tightens the 
spokes necessary to bring back the projecting portion of the 
rim into the true plane of the wheel. As a further precaution 
the chalk is afterward held against the opposite side of the rim, 
then resting, of course, upon the other leg of the fork. The 
advantage possessed by this method is that the wheel is trued 
in its own fork and that when the work is done the true turn- 
ing of the wheel, when finally mounted in the frame, is assured. 



Fig. 3. — Truing Front Wheel Held in its Fork. 

In the second method, Fig. 4, the wheel is shown removed 
from the frame and held so that it may be revolved upon its 
own axle. At the end of the bench is an upright flat bar of 
iron, about ij4 inches in width and about 3-16-inch in thickness, 
provided at suitable intervals with a row of holes to receive 
the end of the axle, which is passed through either one of these 
holes and held in position by its own nut. The wheel is then 
turned and the spokes tightened or loosened in the way de- 
scribed above, the hand holding the chalk being rested upon 
the edge of the bench. 

In this, as in every other operation wherein the spokes are 



9 o 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



changed in any way, it is of the utmost importance when 
finally truing the wheel to make each spoke bear its proportion 
of the load to be carried. In other words, it is essential that 
each individual spoke should be subjected to precisely the same 
tension as each and every one of its neighbors. A single loose 
spoke will, of course, throw additional strain upon those ad- 
joining, the result being what may be called a warping of the 




Fig. 4.— Truing a Rear Wheel. 

wheel, and perhaps the rupture of some of the spokes. Al- 
though this may perhaps be carrying the illustration a little 
far, the principle is there, that one loose spoke is at least risky, 
and that a wheel in which the spokes are not under the same 
strain will very soon meet with disaster. The only way of 
testing the tension to which the several spokes are subjected 
is by grasping adjoining spokes in the nand and by the "feel" 
ascertaining if the pairs are under the same strain. This re- 



THE WHEEL. 



9 1 



quires care and a little experience, although at the first attempt 
the novice will be surprised how surely and quickly he can find 
out where any difference exists. 

Device for Truing a Wheel. 

The device shown in Figs. 5 and 6 consists of a hard wood 
board 1 inch thick, 12 inches wide and 41 inches long. In the 
center is an opening of the shape indicated. The opening is 
started 3 inches from the end B, and is 30 inches from D to C 
and 2 inches wide from L to M. From D to J is 6 inches and 
the distance across the center of the curved portion, E to F, is 8 




Fig. 5. — Device for Truing a Wheel. 



Fig. 6.— The Cone. 

inches. The two gas pipes G are ^5 inch in diameter by 5 
inches long and their outer ends are capped. They are inserted 
in holes in the edges of the board, as shown in the drawing. 
The two pieces H are made of half round iron 3 inches long and 
are screwed to the face of the board in such position that the 
set screws carried by them will engage with and hold the pipes 
G in the desired position. A set screw is put in each end of the 
pipe to hold the ends of the shaft. A small bolt, K, is passed 
through each end of the board to prevent splitting. Two 
notches are made in the end A in order that the board may be 
secured to the bench by lag screws, and thus brought into con- 
venient position for working. If the wheel is removed from its 
axle it may be held in the board by means of two cones, Fig. 6, 



9 2 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



one in each of the gas pipes G. These cones are made of ^ 
inch iron, formed with a shank to fit in the pipe and having a 
cone turned upon the opposite end. 

Jack for Truing a Wheel. 

A simple and convenient jack for holding a wheel for truing 
is shown in Fig. 7. 




Fig. 7. — Jack for Holding a Wheel for Truing. 

Resting upon the top of the base is a cast iron |J-shaped 
fork, the shank of which enters a hole in the top of the column 



THE WHEEL. 



93 



The upper part of the device can be turned to any desired posi- 
tion and held in place by the clamp nut shown at the top of 
the base. Bracket arms extend upward from a cross piece car- 
ried by the shank of the fork and hold the table at their upper 
ends, as shown. 

In the top of each branch of the fork is a ball bearing simi- 
lar in every way to that of the Bicycle. The balls are held in 
place by an exceedingly thin margin of metal, so that they are 
perfectly free to operate when the wheel is placed in position. 
The wheel is thus trued under precisely the same conditions as 
if held in its own frame. One of the shafts carrying the ball 
bearings can be moved in or out to admit the entrance and 




Fig. 8.— Holding a Frame for Truing the Rear Wheel, 

removal of the wheel. A nut holds it in place after the wheel 
has been inserted. An adjustable gauge is held by a standard 
mounted on one of the branches of the fork, as indicated. 
The wheel is trued by revolving it and then marking the pro- 
jecting parts of the rim with chalk in the way already described. 

Holding the Frame While Truing the Rear Wheel. 

A method of holding the frame on the bench while the rear 
wheel is being trued is illustrated in Fig. 8. Near the edge of 
the bench is placed a short stud or bar, projecting 2 or 3 inches 
above the top, and of such size as to enter freely in the socket 



94 



BICYCLE REPAIRING 



head of the frame. A rest projecting from the front of the table 
and supported at its outward end by a standard reaching the floor 
serves to hold the middle portion of the frame. By this arrange- 
ment the frame is held with sufficient firmness to permit any 
desired examination to be made and to admit of ready access to 
all of the parts. 

Removing a Broken Radial Spoke. 

When the spoke of a radial wheel has been broken so as to 
leave the threaded part in the hub it is a more or less difficult 

i ' 





Fig. 9. Fig 

Removing a Broken Radial Spoke. 

job to remove this part. Boring the part out enlarges the hole 
so that the new spoke must be of larger size than the others and 
the wheel will present a patched appearance. In almost every 
instance the threaded part may be removed in the way shown 





Fig. n. 



Fisr. 12. 



Changing a Radial to Tangent Sjioke. 



in Figs. 9 and io. These drawings are greatly enlarged in order 
to make the operation plain. The tool used is a flat drill, Fig. 
io, having a very blunt diamond point. The cutting edges, a a, 



THE WHEEL. 



95 



are left handed — that is, the drill must be turned to the left 
when boring with it. The drill is applied to the screw as indi- 
cated in Fig. 9. A slight recess is cut in the top of the screw 
by moving the drill back and forth through a small arc. This 
raises a ridge in front of the two cutting edges and presents an 
obstruction to the turning of the drill which is sufficient to per- 
mit the screw to be backed out, changing a Radial to Tangent 
Spoke. 

A radial spoke w T heel can be changed to a tangent spoke in 
the following way : The flange of the radial spoke hub shown 




Fig. 13.— Rim Drilling in an Upright Drill. 



in Fig. 11 is turned down about even with the face of the hub 
and a brass disk is formed with a series of peripheral holes and 
bored to fit the turned down portion of the hub, and is then 
placed on the hub and brazed in position. The holes in the 
disk receive the ends of the spokes and the wheel is strung up 
in the usual way. 



g() BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

Rim Drilling in an Upright Drill. 

While drilling a new rim for the reception of the spokes 
two things should be kept in mind — the holes must be accu- 
rately spaced, one from the other, and they must be drilled in 
line with the hub flanges. The first is essential mainly to pre- 
serve the symmetry of the wheel, while the second is important 
because the spokes should pull in a straight line throughout 
their entire length. If the holes are not bored in the proper di- 
rection the spokes will be bent at the rims, and while this may 
not be of much account it is not the proper way to do the 
work. Although the holes can be drilled with a bit and brace 
and good results attained, a much easier and better job can be 
done with either an upright drill or a lathe. 

Rim drilling with an upright drill is illustrated in Fig. 13. 



Fig. 14. — Rim Drilling in a Lathe. 

On the table of the drill is secured a wooden block, A, having a 
groove in its upper side to receive and hold the rim in place. 
Fastened to the drill column at B is a second block of wood, 
against which the lower part of the rim rests. The plane of the 
rim is by this means placed at an angle with the axis of the 
drill spindle, so that the extended axis of the spindle will pass 
through one of the flanges of the hub. While in this position 
one-half of the holes are drilled, every alternate hole being 
skipped. The wheel is then reversed and the remaining holes 
drilled. 

Rim Drilling in a Lathe. 

Rim drilling with the aid of a lathe is shown in Fig. 14. 
Under the drill held in the chuck is placed a block, which is 
secured to the bed of the lathe. This block, A, is of such hight 



THE WHEEL. 97 

as to bring the rim central with the drill. In the block B is a 
hole to receive the tail spindle. This block serves the same 
purpose as the one fastened to the column of the drill — it 
throws the rim out of line with the drill a sufficient distance to 
bring the drill in line with the lower flange on the hub. Every 
alternate hole is then drilled, after which the rim is turned over 
and the others drilled. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

The Tire. 



Repairing a Single Tube Tire. 

As is well known, the single tube Bicycle tire is formed of 
alternate layers of more or less pure rubber and strong cloth or 
canvas. The interior is formed of pure or nearly pure rubber, 
the object of its introduction being to form an absolutely im- 
pervious surface to the passage of air. The strength of this 
inner layer of rubber is practically nil, its principal office being 
to fill the interstices found in the material surrounding it and 
in which the necessary strength to resist the inflation by the air 
is present. From this it will be readily understood why a tube 
of this character cannot be effectively repaired by any system 
of patching placed upon the outside. If the puncture, no matter 




Fig. 1.— Patches. 



Fig. 2.— Batch Held in Pliers. 



how small, extends completely through the fabric of the tube 
the patch placed upon the outside will merely serve as a bar to 
prevent the escape of air at that one point. Suppose this to be 
done, and the hole at this point to be perfectly sealed, then 
upon filling the tire the air will find its way between the layers 
and gradually make for itself another opening. Compared 
with the inner coating of pure rubber all the rest of the tire 
may be considered as being porous to a certain extent. For 
this reason if a hole is made in the inner case the air is only 
partially obstructed in its effort to find an exit, and any remedy 



THE TIRE. 99 

applied to the outside will be useful only for a short time. But 
if a patch can be made to cover the hole on the inside, and if 
the work be perfectly done, the tire is to all intents and pur- 
poses as serviceable as it was before injury. 

It is sometimes difficult to locate an extremely small punc- 
ture, which, when the substance making the puncture has been 
removed, may be closed by the elasticity of the material so as 
to render it invisible to the naked eye. One of the simplest 
ways, and one which may be tried almost anywhere, is to wet 
the part of the tire suspected with soap water and then inflate 
it. The air escaping from the hole will immediately form a 
bubble, giving a true indication of the location. 

The hole once found can only be repaired by passing some 
substance through it to the interior of the tube, and then 
cementing this to the inner surface. Generally the hole is more 
or less ragged in contour, and it should be made as near 
round as possible by removing the jagged edges. The best 
way to do this is by introducing a hot piece of wire of such size 
as not to unduly enlarge the first hole. This will leave the 
edges of the hole in a charred condition, but they may be 
cleaned by the application of a little benzine. 

Figs, i to 5 show how a patch, such as now common, can 
be applied, and also the required implements for doing the 
work. The patches themselves, Fig. i, are made in a great 
many sizes, so as to fit in almost any kind of hole. They are, 
as will be seen, formed of thin disks of rubber, provided at the 
center with a short stem. Before attempting to introduce a 
patch it should be rubbed thoroughly with benzine in order to 
clean it. First a string, as shown in Fig. 2, is tied around the 
stem of the patch near its end, and then the flat portion of the 
patch is folded over upon itself away from the stem and grasped 
between thin-jaw pliers, as shown in Fig. 2. Next the patch is 
forced through the hole in the tire, as shown in Fig. 3. We 
should state here, because of the subsequent operation neces- 
sary, that the tire should be so placed that the part with the 
hole in it will be underneath ; hanging the wheel upon a hook 
if the tire is not removed, with the hole down, answers every 
purpose. Having introduced the patch into the tube, the two 



IDD 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



ends of the string tied about the stem are pulled until the stem 
appears at the outside of the tube. 

Now comes, perhaps, the most important part of the work, 
since if it is not thoroughly done the patch is absolutely use- 
less. A syringe, such as is shown in Fig. 4, or a soft metal 
tube, such as paints are sold in, is filled with rubber cement. 
The spout of the syringe is then introduced into the hole, and 
as the plunger is forced down to expel the cement the spout is 




Fig. 3. — Introducing Patch. 



Fig. 4.— Forcing Rubber Cement in Hole. 



moved so as to bring the cement, as it issues from it, in contact 
with every part of the disk of the patch, which is now upon the 
inside of the tube, and also to thoroughly smear the cement 
over that portion of the tube adjacent to and surrounding the 
hole. When the operator feels that this object has been accom- 
plished the syringe is removed and the string pulled to bring 
the patch close against the inside of the tube. As a final pre- 
caution it is well to grasp the projecting stem of the patch in 
the pliers and thus move it around until it has become thor- 



THE TIRE. 



IOI 



oughly seated upon that portion of the tube wetted by the ce- 
ment. The stem is then cut off, leaving the outside surface of 
the tube smooth and in good condition. It will be apparent 
that this work could be done in the case of a very ragged hole, 
but while the patch would perform its duty just as well, the 




Fig. 5.— Showing Patch in 
Place. 






Fig. 6.—Xeedle for Repairing 
Tire. 



Fig. ".—Showing Application of Xeedle 
with Rubber Bands. 



appearance would be against it, as it would be impossible to 
make the stem fill every portion of the hole. 

Just as soon as the patch has been seated and the operator 
thinks that the disk rests snugly upon the inside of the tube, 
the tube should be inflated. This inside pressure will serve to 



102 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

force the patch down hard against the tube and to hold it in 
position until the cement has thoroughly set. Finally the re- 
pair is tested in the usual way, by placing the inflated tire in 
water and observing if any bubbles appear at the mended 
portipn. 

This method of repairing a puncture may be applied to 
holes of even quite large sizes, this being done either by the 
introduction of one large patch or by two or three. If a not 
too long slit is made in the tire patches can be placed, as de- 
scribed, upon the inside ; then the outside edges of the slit 
should be stitched together in two or three places, and finally, 
and before fully inflating the tire, an outside patch of strong 
rubber cloth should be put on. As explained above, this outside 
patch is of but little use in preventing the escape of air, but 
where the slit is made it would be necessary to re-enforce the 
tire at that point by a strong material in order that the strength 
would be sufficient to confine the air. Although manufacturers 
of rubber tubing have no difficulty in making any repairs, even 
to the taking out of a complete section of the tube and insert- 
ing a new one so nicely that the joint cannot be seen, such work 
cannot be performed except by an expert. Therefore there are 
some punctures which cannot be repaired, except very crudely, 
by any one not having the needed skill and appliances of a 
special kind. 

A very small aperture can be filled by the method shown 
in Figs. 6 and 7. In the former view is illustrated a needle 
formed with a fork at the point and a cross bar half way be- 
tween the fork and the loop of the handle. This needle is then 
strung with rubber bands, as shown to the left in the engrav- 
ing. Rubber cement is introduced into the hole and then the 
rubber bands are smeared with the cement and the needle 
pushed into the opening, as shown in Fig. 7. After the bands 
are in place their projecting parts are trimmed off. It is ap- 
parent that the number of bands will be controlled by the size 
of the opening it is intended to fill. This method is what we 
might term only a makeshift. It is by no means as reliable as 
introducing a patch, but it will serve the purpose, if need be, 
for a time. 



THE TIRE. IOj 

Patching an Inner Tube. 

Repairing an inner tube is a very different operation from 
that just described, and is one that requires delicate and skill- 
ful handling in order to be successful. This tube is made of 
very pure rubber, and when not distended by air it is not stiff 
enough to maintain itself as a tube, as the outer tube does. 
This falling together of the walls of the tube makes it difficult 
to repair a break because of the danger of cementing the inner 
surfaces of the tube itself. This risk can be somewhat lessened 
bv the use of soapstone dust introduced through the hole in the 
tube. Suppose the damage to be caused by a small slit 
in the tube. The edges of the slit are to be brought to- 
gether perfectly, the surrounding portion of the tube and the 




W • —Repairing a Large Break 



Inner Tube. 



patch covered with cement and the patch applied. Enough air 
should be pumped into the tube to separate the surfaces at 
the hole. Careful manipulation with the hands will aid in 
doing this work. As the air continues to be pumped in the 
patched part of the tube can be grasped in the hand in order to 
prevent the patch being lifted by the air pressure. A method 
attended with less danger is to apply the cement around the 
slit, but not to the edges of the slit itself, and to leave an un- 
covered portion on the patch a little larger than the slit. By 
this means there will be small risk of any cement finding its 
way inside the tube. The patch should be of rubber as pure 
as that of the tube. 



Repairing a Large Break in Inner Tube. 

Fig. 8 illustrates a simple and effective way of repairing a 
large break in the inner tube. The tube is cut in two at the 
rupture and one part is inserted in the other, as shown in the 
drawing. Before the parts are put together the surfaces which 



104 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

are to come in contact are first cleaned with benzine and then 
covered with rubber cement. As the inner tube is elastic to a 
high degree, the shortening due to the overlapping is of little 
consequence. By this method of patching a tube there is very- 
little danger of cementing the inner surfaces together. 

Preparing an Inner Tube Patch. 

Sheet rubber for patching is placed on the market in several 
different forms. Those in most common use are the sheets of 
pure gum and sheets of gum backed with canvas. The latter is 
for patching when it is desirable that the patch itself should 
contribute to the strength of the tube ; the former is employed 
when it is only necessary that the patch should render the tube 




Fig. 9.— Preparing an Inner Tube Patch. 

air tight. These are covered with cement before applying, and 
the surface surrounding the hole is first thoroughly cleaned 
with benzine and then covered with cement. The cement should 
be applied five or ten minutes before the patch is put in place. 
All parts of the patch must be pressed into close contact with the 
tube, and after the job has been finished the soapstone should 
be rubbed on. 

It will be found that the application of the cement to the 
pure sheet of rubber will cause it to curl, and there will be more 
or less difficulty in handling it This can be remedied by pro- 
ceeding in the way illustrated in Fig. 9. The rubber sheet A in 



THE TIRE. I05 

stretched over the wooden strip B and the cement rubbed on. 
The rubber is kept taut a minute or two, after which it can be 
removed from the stick with no fear of its rolling up. 

Removing Inner Tube. 

Sometimes there is trouble in removing the inner tube, 
which may be found fastened or cemented to the outer or in- 
closing tube. This sticking is caused by the fact that when the 
inner tube was inserted not enough soapstone powder had been 
placed between it and the outer tube, and therefore the " raw " 
places on the surface of the inner tube had become cemented 
to the other. To completely obviate this difficulty it is only 
necessary to rub the inner tube thoroughly with soapstone dust, 
paying particular attention to any places where the surface has 
been cleaned, or places where patches have been applied. If 
this precaution is not adopted, it is evident that, after the inner 
tube has been drawn into position and the tire inflated, the 
great pressure will cause the union of the two tubes at all points 
where the surfaces have not been protected. The soapstone 
acts as a barrier between the two and prevents their coming 
into too close contact A quantity of the soapstone should be 
placed in the outer tube before the inner one is drawn through ; 
if this is done the easy removal of the inner tube at any future 
time is insured. 

If the inner tube sticks it may be loosened by pouring a 
small quantity of benzine or gasoline between it and the outer 
one and then gently pulling upon it. During this operation the 
tire should be held in such a position that the benzine will fol- 
low the inner tube as it becomes detached from the other. The 
benzine serves to cut the imperfect union which has taken place 
between the two tubes, and aids in their ready separation. The 
inner tube, being such pure gum, will stand considerable pull- 
ing without injury. 

Lacing a Tire. 

A very handy way of placing the tire for lacing is as fol- 
lows : Suspended from the ceiling over the work bench is a 
large wire hook and placed in the bench back of the edge is a 
second one. The tire is placed in the hooks and over the 



io6 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



shoulders, the slit resting on the bench in convenient position 
for lacing. 

The lacing should be what is commonly known as the 
" over stitch." This makes a very neat job, and will not pull 
the eyelets out of the case or cause a swelling at any part of the 
slit when the tire is fully inflated. An extra long cord and two 
needles are required for the work. The best kind of needles to 
use are sailmakers', which have a broad curved point and large 
eye. 

Cementing Tires to Rim. 

For cementing tires to rims the following preparation may 
be used : Dissolve 2 pounds of shellac in Yz gallon of alcohol. 




Fig. 10. — Tire Repairing Corner. 



With a brush apply two coats to both the tire and rim, allowing 
the first coat to dry before putting on the second. Put the tire on, 
pump up hard, and let the cement dry thoroughly before riding. 
Another way is to melt common red cement in a ladle, pour 
it on the rim and let it dry or harden. Then soften with gaso- 
line and put on the tire. A very good method for use on wood 
rims is to make a cement by dissolving red tire cement, broken 



THE TIRE. I07 

in small pieces, in 8 ounces of bisulphide of carbon. This 
preparation will be of the consistency of cream and must be 
kept in a tightly corked bottle. Apply with a brush, put on the 
tire and pump up. This cement is also excellent for fastening 
cork handles. 

A single tube tire that by reason of long use or any other 
cause has become so full of holes that it cannot be patched, 
ma}* be renewed for a time by cutting off the valve stem, slitting 
and punching lace holes and then inserting an inner tube. 

Tire Repairing Corner. 

The engraving, Fig. 10, shows a corner devoted to tire re- 
pairing. At the right hand end of the bench, which is about 40 
inches high, is a rack for holding the wheel being repaired. 
Below this is an air pump, and still further to the right is a tank 
for testing tires. On the wa^: are hooks for holding new and 
old tires. Everything necessary is within easy reach of the 
workman. 



CHAPTER IX. 

The Vaflveo 

"^pairing Inner Tube Valve Stem. 

I + ii rq lently happens that the air will leak out around the 
base v;.-* the stem of the valve of an inner tube. Applying 
patches consisting of strips of sheet rubber to the joint is an 
unsatisfactory way of doing the work. A more perfect and 
serviceable jcb will result if the defective stem is removed and 
a n?w one put on. To remove the old stem insert the spout of 




Fig, 1. — Repairing Inner Tube Valve Stem. 



an oil can filled with benzine under one edge of the flat base of 
the stem, as shown at B in Fig. i. The stem can then be 
pulled little by little away from the tube, the spout following 
the line of separation. The new stem is then cleaned, cemented 
and put on the same way as a patch. 

Repairing a Single Tube Valve. 

It is next to useless to attempt to repair, by any system of 
patching, a leaky valve ste'm of a single tube tire. The work 



THE VALVE. 



I09 



will not be permanent, and sooner or later trouble will be found 
at the same point. Perhaps the best way is to remove the old 
valve stem, insert an inside patch and plug, and then put a new 
valve in some other part of the tire. If the lower part of the valve 
stem is of rubber it is necessary that the union between the base 
and the inner part of the tube should be perfect. This is of the 
greatest importance, because, if the inside joint is not true in 
every part, the air will find its way along the fabric in the cen- 
ter of the tire wall, and thence escape through the compara- 
tively coarse and porous rubber forming the outside covering. 
It may be well to state that the perfect insertion of a rub- 
ber valve stem having a rubber base in* the ordinary hose pipe 
tire requires skill only to be obtained in a rubber manufactur- 




ing. 2. — Repairing a Single Tube Valve. 

ing establishment. The valve referred to is in most respects 
identical with the valve as originally placed in the tire. Many 
repairers, when valves of this kind are to be fixed, send the tube 
back to the manufacturers, or to some concern which makes a 
specialty of doing work of this kind. In order that the job 
may be substantial and durable it is essential that the inner 
part or base of the valve should be in perfect contact with the 
interior surface of the tire, for reasons before mentioned, and 
as a final precaution vulcanization is needed. While as a make- 
shift the base of the valve can be forced through the hole made 
in the tire and then cemented in a manner similar to that fol- 
lowed in applying a patch, the task is one that is extremely 
difficult, and one that, moreover, will almost always cause trou- 
ble in the near future. 



no 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



A valve stem possessing several advantages is shown in 
Fig. 2. An opening, D, is made in the tire. The stem E is 
threaded and at its lower end is formed with a cap, above which 
is the rubber washer C. This washer is squeezed through the 
opening, the tire then occupying the position indicated by the 
dotted lines. The nut A is then screwed down on the washer 
B. This device clasps the tire firmly between the two washers 
B and C, and as the latter is made of rubber there is no danger 
of cutting the tube. 

Repairing the Valve Proper. 

The drawings, Figs. 3 and 4, show the interior construction 
of a valve which is more or less extensively used and which 




Fig S. — Repairing the Valve Proper. 

possesses many good features. This valve is selected merely to 
illustrate about how much work, in the shape of repairing, the 
ordinary repair shop can undertake profitably, and also when 
it may be desirable to discard the valve entirely and substitute 
a new one. The first drawing shows the valve in vertical sec- 



THE VALVE. Ill 

tion, all the parts being in their proper positions. In the sec- 
ond drawing the parts are all separated, so that the form of 
each individual piece can be seen, while at the same time, by 
means of reference to the letters in the two engravings, which 
refer to similar parts, the detached portions may be readily lo- 
cated. Projecting from the rubber base of the valve is a rubber 
stem, A, at the top of which is inserted the threaded brass por- 
tion C. For a short distance from the top this brass portion is 
formed with a circular opening, and at the bottom of this open- 
ing is a rectangular extension to receive the flattened lower 
part of the plug J, which, in reality, constitutes the valve 



/T^ . 




Fig 4- — Repairing the Valve Proper, 



proper. The upper part of this plug is threaded to receive the 
cap H, which surmounts the whole and binds all the parts to- 
gether. The lower part of the plug is flattened and enters a 
corresponding recess, merely to prevent its turning when the 
cap is screwed on or off. The plug J enters the sleeve E, which 
screws upon the top of the stem A, the part G entering the 
sleeve E, and when the cap is screwed down the two rubber 
washers, that on the plug indicated by D and the other at F on 
bottom of the part G, form the actual seal of the valve. A sim- 
ple spiral spring, B, which is placed loosely in the bottom of the 
stem A, acts to lift the plug J during the first stages of infla- 



112 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

tion, when the air pressure in the tube is very slight. It may 
happen that this valve will become inoperative after it has been 
set, so to speak, for several weeks, by reason of the rubber 
washers, particularly the lower one, having obtained a permanent 
set. This, of course, can be quickly remedied by the insertion 
of a new one. If any parts of this valve should become broken 
or dented, so as to render the device useless, the required re- 
pair can be made without much trouble, but, as is evident from 
the construction, such disaster is of extremely rare occurrence. 
In valves having a metal seat in which the two ground sur- 
faces come together, a repair can be made when these seats 
become roughened so as to permit the escape of air by reason, 
say, of the entrance of particles of sand, but the work is one 
which, if done on a lathe, requires skill, and can only be profit- 
ably accomplished by fine grinding. Other forms of the valve 
depending upon rubber or upon metallic contact may be fixed, 
but in the great majority of cases, unless the repair is an ex- 
tremely simple one and can be quickly performed, it will not 
pay to undertake it, because mainly of the cheapness of a new 
valve. In the majority of cases it would therefore seem more 
advisable to replace a valve that is out of order by buying a 
new one rather than attempt to apply any remedy. This par- 
ticularly holds good for a repairer who is not perfectly familiar 
with the valve, and if he cannot tell at a glance just exactly 
what to do and about how long it will take him to do it. 



CHAPTER X. 

The Handle Bar, 



Many riders have notions peculiar to themselves as to the 
" "^oer shape or form of the handle bar ; or it may be that an 
individual's experience has taught him that with a bar of cer- 
tain curve T e can obtain the best results. It is only necessary 
to lo r at the handle bars at any "meet" of wheelmen to be 
conviw.-ed that there is no rule controlling the shape, and also 
that opinions vary as to the best shape for the purpose, whether 
acing or ordinary road work. 

In order to meet the requirements of the rider it becomes 
essential to make the handle bars of exactly the curve he favors. 
It is. of course, important for the rider to give the maker or re- 
pa ' a correct idea of the curve he wants. This is commonly 
done by adopting one of the three following courses : To make 
drawings showing the curve desired, to send a photograph of 
a handle bar like or nearly like what he requires, or to send a 
wire bent to the right shape. 

The first plan requires the services of a skilled draftsman 
in order that the ideas may be made plain to the one who is to 
do the work. There is also much liability to error, either in the 
first making of the drawings or in their subsequent interpreta- 
tion by the repairer. 

A photograph is preferable, but it is not always convenient 
to obtain one. A picture can be followed very accurately by 
the repairer, and it possesses the further advantage that slight 
changes or modifications in the curves can be verbally indicated 
bv the owner with the conviction that they will be readily un- 
derstood and correctly followed by the workman. 

The third plan is undoubtedly the best, since it is the eas- 
iest to make and since its use obviates all possibility of error. 
Ordinary telegraph wire is stiff enough for the purpose. This 
is cut the right length, bent as may be desired and handed to 



114 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

the repairer, who, with this guide before him, finds no difficulty 
in making the handle bar the same shape. 

Xo trouble should be experienced by the repairer in mak- 
ing a handle bar of any shape. Two ways are at his command : 
One is to fill the handle bar tube with rosin and then bend it 
cold, after gripping it in a vise between soft pine pieces. The 
rosin, which is melted and poured into the tube, obviates all 
danger of buckling. After having been bent the tube is heated 
to melt the rosin, which is then poured out. 

Form for Bending a Handle Bar. 

The other plan is to heat the bar in a Bunsen flame to a 
dull red and then bend over a form, as shown in Fig. i. This 



Fig. l.—Forra for Bending a Handle Bar. 

form is made of pine, about ij4 inches thick and curved on one 
edge to conform to the handle bar to be made. This curved 
edge is then covered with a strip of asbestos to prevent the 
burning of the wood by the heated bar. In the center of the 
curved portion of the pattern is bored a hole, as indicated by 
the dotted lines, to receive the shank of the bar. The bar is 
heated, 2 or 3 inches at a time, and then bent, step by step, 
until it coincides with the pattern. The first heat is applied to 
that part nearest the shank, and from there the alternate heat- 
ing and bending go on to the end. In this, as in all other in- 
stances where it is requisite to bend a tube, extreme care should 
be exercised not to overheat the metal and not to attempt a too 
abrupt bend at one heating. Buckling and consequent destruc- 
tion of the tube may be the result. 



THE HANDLE BAR. . j 1 $ 

Simple Device for Bending Handle Bars. 

A handle bar that has been bent out of shape may be re- 
stored to its normal lines with the aid of the device represented 
in Fig. 2. This is a block of very close grained hard wood, 
measuring 6x6x8 inches. Through the 6-inch thickness a 




<o p 



Fig. ?. — Simple Device for Bending Handle Ba7*s. 

i-inch hole is bored. This hole is then to be countersunk on 
both sides to a bell-mouthed shape, with the largest opening of 
2^ inch. All sharp lines should be cut and filed perfectly 
smooth so as to present a cross section, as sketched in Fig. 2. 

The manner in which this block is to be employed in bend- 
ing or correcting the bends of the handle bar is illustrated by 




Fig. S.— Method of Using Block Shown in Fig. 2. 

Fig. 3- The tube is passed through the bell-mouthed bore, and, 
by using the free parts of the bar as a lever held in one's hand 
and by exercising the proper care and strength, most bent bars 
can be restored to the original lines. 



n6 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



Machine for Bending Handle Bars. 

The apparatus shown in Fig. 4 is much more elaborate. It 
consists of two large grooved rolls and a smaller grooved roll 
carried by the lever arm, the smaller roll being intended to 
travel around one of the larger rolls and thereby bend the pipe, 
which is placed between them, as will he understood from the 
engraving. The device is so constructed that it can be ad- 
justed to bend work of different lengths and also to different 
curves. This is accomplished by having one of the rolls mova- 
ble in a slot. This adjustment is for different widths of handle 




Fig. 4- — Machine for Bending Handle Bars. 



bars. For different curves the rolls must be changed to larger 
or smaller sizes, as may be required. The rolls are designed so 
that it is possible to obtain a complete circle. The tubing 
bent on this machine is first filled with rosin. 

Removing and Replacing Handles. 

In the majority of wheels the handles are made of either 
one of two materials — hard or vulcanized rubber or cork. 
Much uniformity also exists in the methods of securing the 
handles to the handle bars. Generally they are bored to fit 



THE HANDLE BAR. I 1 7 

snugly on the ends of the bars, and are held in place by a ce- 
ment which has a low melting point. The ends of the bars are 
threaded to receive screw caps, which serve the double purpose 
of ornaments and additional guards for the handles. Cork 
handles may be removed by holding the bar in a Bunsen flame 
at a point just above the handle. The heat will then be con- 
veyed by conduction to that portion of the bar within the han- 
dle. This will soften the cement so as to permit of the with- 
drawal of the handle. Hard rubber handles may be removed 
by immersing them in hot water, this method being adopted in 
order to make sure that the handle will not be injured by too 
great heat. 

To replace the handles the ends of the bar should be thor- 
oughly cleaned and then heated sufficiently to melt the cement 
applied to them. The handles can then be worked on by giving 
them a slight turning movement. 



CHAPTER XL 



Miscellaneous Hinti 



Removing a Ball Bearing Case. 

In some Bicycles the inner half of the bearing for carrying 
the balls consists of a circular case, a, Fig, i, which has a square 
outside section, and a curved inner section to receive the balls. 
Each end of the crank shaft bracket is enlarged to receive the 
case, which is forced into position by pressure and is held in 
place by the grip of the surrounding bracke. The center of 
the flat portion of the case is removed to permit the passage of 




Fig. 1.— Removing a Ball Bearing Case. 

the axle, but the hole so formed is not as large as the bore of 
the bracket. A small ring of the case projects into the opening. 
To remove the case, a, the side lip punch shown in Fig. i is 
used. This is passed into the opposite end of the bracket until 
the lip rests against the small ring of the case. By striking 
lightly upon the punch, which is moved around the ring, the 
case can be driven out without trouble. A case can be replaced 



MISCELLANEOUS HINTS. 



II 9 



by holding the bracket in the jaws of a vise and forcing the case 
to its seat. 

Removing a Key. 

A key or wedge is apt to stick in its seat after it has been 
in position for some time. Although it can be easily removed,, 
it is yet true that the attempt to loosen it often results in serious 
damage to the key and also to the part in which it is placed. 
Fig. 2 represents a key in its position at the inner end of a 
crank, where it serves to bind the crank to the end of the axle. 
To loosen it the nut on the small end of the key is turned until 




Fig. 2.— Removing a Key. 



its upper face is flush with the end of the key. A heavy ham- 
mer is then held under the crank, as indicated, and the nut 
struck a sharp blow with a light hammer. A single blow will 
loosen the key in almost every instance ; raising the nut until 
its surface is even with the end of the bolt obviates all danger 
of injuring the thread of either the key or nut. If the nut is 
raised too high there is a risk that the threads in contact may 
be upset to such an extent as to render both key and nut 
useless. 



1 20 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



Dog for Removing Keys. 

The device shown in Fig. 3, while primarily intended for 
loosening keys, will find a wide range of usefulness. The 
threaded end of the bolt is fitted with a concave loose brass 
button to fit over the end of a key. This construction and 




Fig. 3.— Dog for Removing Keys. 

method of application obviate all danger of injuring the key, 
and at the same time permit of the exertion of a pressure suffi- 
cient to remove the most obstinate key. 

Adjustable Crank Puller. 

The crank puller illustrated in Fig. 4 can be adjusted to fit 
any crank. Through the center of the block D is an opening 




Fig. 4. — Adjustable Crank Puller. 

which is threaded to receive the screw E. The lower end of 
the screw is cone shaped, and at the upper end is a hexagonal 
cap, to which a wrench is applied for turning the screw. Instead 



MISCELLANEOUS HINTS. 



121 



of this cap a crossbar can be passed through the upper end of 
the screw to serve as a handle for turning. Held to the block 
D by the screws B and C are two side pieces or cheeks. The 
upper ends of these side pieces are bent to a right angle, the 
bent portions resting on top of the block. The lower ends are 
also bent inwardly and have upwardly curved extremities A. 

To use the device, the side pieces, by means of their screws, 
are adjusted so that the crank is carried upon the points A, the 
shaft hanging down and in line with the screw E. The point 
<of the screw presses against the center of the shaft. As the 
crank is held firmly by the points A, the shaft will be forced out 
when the screw is brought to bear upon it. 

Vise Used for Removing Crank Key. 

A simple way of removing a crank key, and one in which 
there is no possibility of injuring in any way either the crank 




Fig. 5. — Vise Used for Removing Crank Key. 

or the key, is illustrated in Fig. 5. The drawing represents a 
plan view of the two jaws of a vise, with the crank and block 
by which the key is removed in position between the jaws. 
The block C may be any piece of iron from 1 to 2 inches in 
length and from 1 to 1^ inches in diameter. A hole ^2 inch in 
diameter is bored nearly or quite through the block, lengthwise. 
The block is placed against that side of the crank B from which 
the large end of the key projects, the small end of the key rest- 
ing against the face of the jaw A. Upon the vise being screwed 
up the key will be forced out of the crank into the opening in 
the block. A small piece of }4-inch gas pipe might serve as the 



122 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



block, a piece of sheet brass being inserted between the block 
and crank to prevent injury to the latter. 

False Faces for Vises. 

It is frequently desirable to hold an enameled or nickel- 
plated frame in a vise. The rough surface of the faces of the 
jaws of the vise would mar the frame if some soft material were 




Fig. 6 





Fig. 9. 





Fig. 10. 
False Faces for Vises. 



Fig 11. 



not interposed. Cushions of thick felt have been tried for this 
purpose, but they have the disadvantage of soon wearing out 
and also of preventing the vise gripping firmly enough to pre- 
vent slipping. In addition, if the vise is screwed up suffi- 
ciently to hold the work, there is danger of the tube being flat- 
tened by the great pressure. A few false faces for vises which 
have given the most satisfactory results are shown in Figs. 6 to 
t i, inclusive. The application of one of these to the vise and the 
way in which it holds the frame are shown in Fig. 12. These 



MISCELLANEOUS HINTS. 12$ 



4 



faces, it will be observed, are made in pairs, and their meeting 
surfaces are so formed that when placed together the frame will 
be firmly grasped in the groove. The pair shown in Fig. 6 are 
made of cast iron, the semicircular grooves being finely fin- 
ished. Faces made of iron have not been found to give the 
best results, mainly because there is a limit to their range of 
applications. They answer well for holding tubes of the exact 
size of the grooves, but of course cannot be applied to anything 
smaller, and if a tube of larger diameter is gripped the edges 
of the grooves are apt to injure the surface of the tube. 

For these reasons they are not as serviceable as faces 
made of pine, shown in the illustrations, Figs. 7 to 10. The 
drawings show these so plainly that but little explanation is 
needed. The pair with two grooves at an angle with each 




Fig. 12. — Showing Use of False Faces for Vise. 

other, Fig. 8, and parallel with each other, Fig. 10, were made 
for a special form of frame. These faces are easily, quickly 
and cheaply made, are light and convenient to handle, and 
while holding the work as firmly as need be will not injure the 
finish. 

The jaws shown in Fig. 11 are made of two pieces of hard 
wood, which are forked for a considerable part of their length 
in order to slip over the sliding bar of the vise. The legs of 
the pieces are screwed to blocks, as shown. The two pieces 
spread apart from the blocks toward their upper ends, and the 
spring thus formed serves to hold the appliance between the 
vise jaws. The inner upper surfaces of the two legs are cov- 



I2 4 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



ered with heavy felt. It will be perceived from what has been 
said that the ideas just presented can be changed and extended 
according to the ingenuity of the repairer. 

Spring False Face for Vise. 

The wooden jaws shown in Fig. 13 are held together by a 
spring, which normally tends to force the lower parts of the two 
jaws apart or away from each other. The result of this is that 
when the jaws are placed in the vise, as indicated in the en- 




Fig. IS.— Spring False Face for Vise. 



graving, they are held in position by the action of the spring. 
This construction makes this type of false face much more con- 
venient to handle than those before described, in which the two 
parts were not united in any way. 

Boring Crank. 

Forged cranks now come to the repairer without having 
the needed holes bored in them. The location of the two 
large holes, one to receive the main axle and the other to receive 
the pedal axle, is indicated by conical depressions in the forging. 



MISCELLANEOUS HINTS. 



I2 5 



It is necessary, therefore, for the repairer to bore these two 
holes, and also the hole for the key or pin. The device shown 
in Fig. 14 was designed for doing this work. It consists of 
a hollow cube of cast iron, in the opening in which the ends of 
the cranks are free to enter. One end of the crank is inserted 
as shown and a small hole bored through it in the center of the 
conical depression. While in this position the hole for the key 
is also bored, the drill being guided by a hole in the back of 
the block and not shown in the cut. This method insures the 
correct placing of these holes in their relation to each other. 
The crank is then turned end for end and the other hole bored. 




Fig. 14. — Boring Crank. 



The two end holes are then enlarged to the proper size by a 
counterbore drill. 

Drilling Hub Flanges. 

In Fig. 15 is shown a simple and very useful device for 
drilling the holes in the flanges of hubs to receive the spokes. 
Mounted on a cast iron plate, which is intended to be fastened 
on the table of an ordinary upright drill, is a vertical standard 
upon which the hub is clamped. This shaft carries at its base 
a plate provided with holes arranged in circles concentric with 
the axis of the standard. These holes are accurately spaced 
and the several different rows contain different numbers of 
holes, so that the flanges can be bored with any number of holes 



I 2 6 



BICYCLE REPAIRING, 



required, 16, 18, 20, etc. Just below the standard is an adjust 
able bur, having at its inner end a pin which may be adjusted 
to enter any hole in the circular plate. This bar is held upon 
the cast iron base plate, the perforated plate and its standard 
being free to revolve about its inner end. 

In using the device the base is clamped to the table of the 
drill in such a position as to bring the drill in proper alignment 
with the holes to be drilled in the hub. If 20 holes are to be 




Fig. 15.— Drilling Hub Flanges. 



bored the stop pin is adjusted to enter one of the holes in the 
row containing 20. One hole is then bored through the flange, 
and the gauge plate is moved one-twentieth of a circle by in- 
serting the pin in the adjoining hole. In this way the entire 
number is drilled. The success of this device depends upon 
the correct spacing of the holes, as any inaccuracy in doing this 
will be repeated in the holes in the hub. 

Drilling Seat Standard. 

In some Bicycles the seat is carried by a bar passing through 
the seat standard near its top. This bar is generally placed at 



MISCELLANEOUS HINTS. 



I27 



an angle with the standard. The jig shown in Fig. 16 is 
intended for boring the hole in the top of the standard at the 
proper angle. In the engraving the standard and its seat bar 
ate shown with the former passed through the jig. This was 
done merely to show the relationship of the two parts. Passing 
lengthwise through the jig is a hole which guides the drill. 
Intersecting this hole is a second one, which is inclined with the 
first. The standard is inserted in this second hole and clamped 
in place by the bolt shown, when the hol-e is bored through it. 




Fig. 16.— Drilling Seat Standard. 

It would not pay to make this jig except in the case of a manu- 
facturer or of a repairer for a wheel for which he had the 
agency. 

Bar Straightener. 



The tool shown in Fig. 17 will be found to be useful for 
straightening or for bending any pieces of solid metal. With 
its aid bent cranks, shafts and similar parts may be easily 
brought back to their original shape. It should never be applied 
to tubing, as the result would almost surely be the denting or 
buckling of the tube by the edges of the jaw. In many cases 
bent cranks and pedal pins can 
them. 



be restored without removing 



128 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



The tool is made of a ^-inch steel bar, bent at one end so 
as to form a square jaw i inch across. The length of the upper 
section of the jaw is 2^ inches and of the outer side 2% inches. 
The length over all is 24 inches. This gives a long handle, with 
which sufficient leverage can be obtained to do any work within 




Fig. 17.— Bar Straightener. 

the proper limits of the tool. If the bar of which the tool is 
made is square in section, the inner corners of the jaw should 
be filed off to a slight curve in order that the tool will not mar 
the piece to which it is applied. The bar to be straightened is 
placed in the jaw and the handle is moved in the direction to 
bring the bar to its original form. 

Straightening Shafts or Bars in the Vise. 

A convenient way of straightening shafts or bars is shown 
in Fig. 18. Three angles, shaped as indicated at E, are made 




Fig. 18.— Straightening Shafts or Bars in the Vise. 

of half-round or round iron. These are arranged on the jaws 
of a vise as indicated at A, B and C, the bar D to be straight- 
ened being placed between them. The bulging or convex side 
of the bar rests against the angle C. This method may be em- 
ployed to advantage when the bar is too heavy to admit of 
handling with the bar straightener just described or when the 
piece is so small as to be difficult to hold. 



MISCELLANEOUS HINTS. 

Removing a Screwed On Sprocket. 



129 



The engraving, Fig. 19, shows how stubborn screwed on 
sprocket wheels, which sometimes give the repair man a vast 
amount of trouble, may be removed without injuring either the 
sprocket or shaft. The wheel is placed on the horn of an anvil, 
and is struck all around with a hammer. The repeated blows 




K Fig. 19. — Removing a Screwed on Sprocket. 



loosen the wheel, and if carefully delivered there is no danger 
of injury. 

Truing a Sprocket Wheel. 

A way of truing the driving sprocket wheel is shown in 
Fig. 20. The shaft carrying the sprocket is held between the 
centers of a lathe. A piece of chalk held against the side of 
the revolving wheel will mark where any distortion exists. The 
wheel is then removed from the lathe and struck on the chalk 
mark to force that portion in the opposite direction. This is 
continued until the chalk, lightly held against the wheel, will 
form a continuous mark or perfect circle In this same way it 
can be found out whether the axle has been sprung out of a 
true line or not. 



I30 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

Mending a Chain. 

Extremely rarely does it become necessary to mend a chain 
by reason of the links or rivets having been broken. The oper- 
ation is the same, whether a so-called stretched chain is to be 
shortened by the removal of one of the links or a broken link 
is to be replaced. One of the heads of the rivet is filed away 
sufficiently to admit of its being driven out of its hole. A new 
link is then put in place and the rivet inserted and its head 
hammered down. To facilitate repairs of this kind it would be 
advisable to keep on hand a small stock of sheet steel of which 
to make a new link whenever required. An old link from the 
same chain can be used as a guide when boring the holes in the 




Fig. 20.— Truing a Sprocket Wheel. 

new link. This insures the accurate spacing of the holes and 
the final easy moving of the chain over the sprocket wheels. 

In some forms of chain the outer portions of the holes in 
the links are counter bored to receive the heads of the rivets. 
When this is the case the whole head cannot be filed off and 
boring must be resorted to. A flat spot is filed on the rivet 
head, and a mark made with a center punch as nearly in line 
with the axis of the rivet as possible. With this mark as a 
center the head of the rivet is drilled away until the drill 
meets the straight shank of the rivet, which may then be driven 
out. 

Putting on a Chain. 

The simplest way of putting on a chain is that illustrated 
in Fig. 21. One end of the chain is held to the large sprocket 



MISCELLANEOUS HINTS. 



HI 



wheel, while the body of the chain is carried in the direction 
indicated by the arrow, back to and around the small sprocket, 
and the other end is brought up to the point A, where one link 
is placed over that tooth of the wheel immediately to the rear 
of the one already occupied by the last link of the other end of 




Fig. 21. — Putting on a Chain. 

the chain. The free link can then be brought down to its true 
position and the bolt inserted to unite the two ends. 

Holding Balls in Place. 

In some forms of pedals trouble is often experienced in hold- 
ing the balls in place until the cone has been screwed down. This 
may be obviated by taking a piece of paper a little longer than 
the circumference of the hole, rolling it into a tube and insert- 
ing it into the hole so that one end projects slightly beyond 




Fig. 22.— Holding Balls in Place. 

the side plates, as shown in Fig. 22. This will prevent, the balls 
from rolling into the hole. 

Mending a Broken Hub. 

The hub shown in Fig. 23 was broken near one of the 
spoke flanges. A short length of steel tubing was placed in 
the bore of the hub and the parts were then brazed. The in- 
tegrity of a repair of this character depends upon two condi- 
tions — the thickness of the inserted steel tube and the degree 
of perfection of the brazing. The first is governed by the size 



*32 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



of the axle. If the axle nearly fills the hole in the hub, so that 
only a thin tube can be used, the joint will be lacking in 
strength. The job will be useless unless a tube of ample thick- 
ness and having the requisite strength can be employed. The 




Fig. 28. —Mending a Broken Hub. 

brazing should be done perfectly, and the entire length of the 
tube must be united to the hub in order to make a joint that 
will be permanent. The mere brazing of the surfaces of the 
break itself will do but little good. 

Home Made Wire Wrench. 

A home made wire wrench of very simple construction is 
shown in Fig. 24. Two pieces of ^6-inch sheet steel are cut in 




Fig. 24.— Home Made Wire Wrench. 

the shape A, and the hook B is placed between these pieces and 
a rivet is passed through the lower ends. In the curved upper 



MISCELLANEOUS HINTS. 133 

edges of the pieces A are filed teeth, as indicated. This curve 
is eccentric to the rivet, so that when the hook B is at its ex- 
treme right hand position a rod or pipe % inch in diameter 
can be gripped. As the hook is moved toward the left any 
smaller size down to nothing may be firmly held. This tool is 
useful for removing radial spokes and for turning any round 
piece not larger than % inch. 



CHAPTER XII. 

Emanuel log. 

An important branch in a Bicycle repairing establishment 
is that devoted to enameling. There seem to be in general 
three divisions of enameling, when we consider solely the qual- 
ity of the work done ; they are — good, bad and indifferent. 
Poor enameling can be done by any one and with appliances 
of the crudest description. Work of an indifferent character 
may result when the appliances are upon a more refined scale, 
and even when the materials are of the most perfect descrip- 
tion. It will then be due to the inexperience and, therefore, 
the incompetency of the operator. The best enameling can 
only be done with apparatus designed and perfectly suited to 
the work, with materials of the highest grade and by one who 
has studied and understands the work he attempts. Since a 
reputation for otherwise excellent and, in fact, superior work in 
repairing may be ruined by lack of knowledge of the enamel- 
ing department, it would be well to advise those who are not 
prepared to study the subject thoroughly and to fully equip 
their works with the best appliances to refuse to do enameling 
of any kind. At the same time the enameling branch of a re- 
pair shop may be made one of the most lucrative, and a reputa- 
tion once attained for good work in this line will undoubtedly 
result in an increase in the business in other directions. This 
is due almost wholly to the fact that much of the enameling at- 
tempted in the ordinary repair shop is of an exceedingly infe- 
rior grade, for the reasons above mentioned. 

In every operation connected with enameling it is of the 
utmost importance to preserve absolute cleanliness. This ap- 
plies first to the piece to be enameled, second to the enamel it- 
self and its application to the piece, third to the enameling oven 
in which the piece is baked. 



ENAMELING. 135 

In re-enameling it is first essential to remove every trace of 
the first or original coat. If this coat has been well put on in 
the first instance by the manufacturer it will be found that the 
old enamel is exceedingly hard and that any attempt to remove 
it by means of emery cloth or by scraping will be exceedingly 
tedious and finally ineffective. The most common practice is 
to soak the part in a strong solution of soda or potash, either 
hot or cold, the former being far preferable, and it is quicker. 
This soaking softens the old enamel so that it can be wiped 
or brushed off. In this work care should be taken to remove 
from all the recesses and hidden places the old enamel by 
means of a hard brush. In case of work which has never 
received a coat of enamel, grease and dirt can be removed by 
the same process, and where there is no danger of fire benzine 
can be employed with excellent results. When it is evident 
that all foreign material has been removed from its surface, 
this surface can be considered in the same light that the cabinet 
maker considers the surface of the piece of wood which he in- 
tends to polish. The smoother the surface is made before the 
finishing coats are put on the better will be the results. As a 
scratch on the surface of the wood of the cabinet maker would 
appear through his final coat of varnish, so a scratch on the 
metal to be enameled will finally appear and mar the surface 
of the final coat. 

Too much attention cannot, in consequence of this, be paid 
to the surface of the material, nor can too much work be de- 
voted to it in order to make it absolutely smooth before apply- 
ing the enamel. There are certain enamels which do not re- 
quire this excessive preparatory attention ; but, referring again 
to the cabinet maker, an enamel so thick that it will fill deep 
scratches, and which to the eye appears perfect, resembles a 
thick varnish, which is never used upon high class work. 
Enameling liquids can be purchased for a very small sum, but 
while they may make the work look perfect in every respect 
they have not the hardness and do not possess the durability of 
those of a higher grade, and therefore costing more money. 
The reason is simply that the cheaper grades cannot be sold at 
the price some of them are and yet contain the ingredients 
necessary in the perfect liquid. It is not policy to undertake 



130 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

enameling unless the conviction is reached to use only the best 
grades of liquids. The best quality of enameling liquid is com- 
paratively thin, and yet when once baked on the metal it is hard 
enough to resist an ordinary scratch or abrasion, and at the 
same time cling so closely to the material that the latter may 
be bent and straightened and hammered without having the 
enamel come off in flakes. 

The best process in Bicycle work is to bake on two or more 
successive coats, all of thin, high grade liquid. This gives a 
perfect covering, a dense color, the highest finish, and possesses 
the looked-for durability. Finally, it can only be said that 
those who attempt enameling should consult the most reput- 
able manufacturers of the liquid, and not expect to obtain satis- 
factory results without the employment of superior materials, 
aided by skill in their manipulation. 

Applying the Enameling Liquid. 

After the article has been cleaned and the surface smoothed 
to the desired extent, the liquid should be carefully applied so 
as to cover every portion as evenly as possible. For doing this 
a brush of superior quality is necessary. The cheap bristle 
affair will not result in good work. With brushes such as those 
made of badger hair the liquid can be applied with great suc- 
cess. Although the liquid does not begin to set quickly under 
the brush, it is not good practice to brush back and forth too 
many times. 

The engraving, Fig. i, shows a tank in which the piece to 
be enameled is dipped. The tank is of such width, length and 
depth as to permit the complete immersion of a frame. At one 
side is a dripping board, placed at an angle of about 45 degrees, 
which catches and returns all the drippings from the frame back 
to the tank. The frames are dipped in the liquid and then 
hung on the rack over the dripping board. As soon as all sur- 
plus enamel has run off the frames are removed to the enameling 
oven. 

Enameling Oven of Sheet Iron. 

With this division of this article are presented drawings 
showing different kinds of enameling ovens. The one shown in 



ENAMELING. 



137 



Figs. 2 and 3 consists of a sheet iron box mounted on a brick 
floor, in order to protect the wooden floor against fire, and 
measures 6 feet in hight, 4 feet in width and 3 feet in depth. 
At the front it is provided with a door, as indicated by the 
opening. Above the oven is suspended, by wires from the ceil- 




ing. 1. — Dipping the Frames. 



ing, a sheet iron plate which is larger than the plan of the oven 
and is designed to protect the ceiling of the room. Extending 
lengthwise along near the top of the inside of the oven are rods 
provided with §- sna ped hooks, from which the work is sus- 
pended. Extending across the bottom are three multiple 



i;S 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



Bunsen burners, which are shown enlarged in Fig. 3. Each 
burner consists of a 2 inch pipe provided with three rows of 
holes, as shown. The inner ends of these burners are closed ; 
the opposite or outer ends extend through the side wall of the 
oven and are open to the air. The gas enters through the pipe 




Fig. 2. — Enameling Oven of Sheet Iron. 



indicated, and from the main supply pipe are three branches 
which enter a short distance into the main or 2-inch pipes. 
Each of these branch pipes is provided with a valve, as shown. 
Gas, under the usual pressure, enters the burner and draws in the 
necessary supply of air for complete combustion through the 
open end of the burner, as indicated by the arrows. This 
ever has been found to give most excellent results, to be 



ENAMELING. 



139 



easily controlled, and by the use of either one or all of the 
burners to permit any degree of heat to be attained. 

Brick Enameling Oven. 

The inside measurements of the oven, shown in Figs. 4 and 
5, are 6 feet in night, 7 feet 4 inches in length, and 3 feet in 



AIR 
\ 



vi#jp 



Fig. 3.— Plan of Multiple Bunsen Burner in Fig 2. 

depth. It consists of a brick floor and brick end walls and a 
cement top ; the whole being lined with sheet iron. It is pro- 
vided at the top with rods carrying hooks, and at the bottom 



7fi 4in 




Fig. 4.— Brick Enameling Oven. 

with two multiple Bunsen burners. The burner shown in plan 
view, Fig. 5, is used, and the whole is inclosed in a small room 



140 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



formed with glass sides and doors, in which all the work except 
the cleaning of the frames is performed. This inclosure was 
made in order to insure absolute cleanliness. The burner shown 
in Fig. 5 consists of two tubes, B and D, which enter through 
one of the sides of the oven at the bottom. The inner end of 
the tube B is formed with a right angle extension, C, and the 
inner part of the tube E is formed with a right angle extension, 
F, so that these two tubes taken together entirely surround the 
floor of the oven. The tubes are formed with holes as indicated 
by the dots. The outer ends of both of these tubes are closed, 
and through their closed ends enter the gas pipes from the mail* 




Fig. 5. — Plan of Multiple Bv.nsen Burner in Fig. 4. 



supply pipe A. The air for mixing with the gas is drawn in 
through the small holes shown in the ends of the pipe at a. 

Enameling Oven Heated from Outside. 

In reality, the oven shown in Figs. 6 and 7, consists of two 
boxes placed one within the other, an air space of 2^ inches be- 
ing left between the walls and also the ceiling. Both of these 
boxes are built of heavy sheet iron, lapped and riveted. The 
bottom of the inner or smaller box is covered with about 2 
inches of asbestos, this being introduced in order that the floor 
may not become so highly heated as to burn the feet of the 
workmen. Between this floor and the floor of the outer or in- 
closing box is a considerable space, in which are four burr.ers, 
E, radiating from a common center. These burners are of the 
Bunsen type, the air and gas admitted to the central tube being 
controlled by valves placed in the conducting pipes C and D. 



ENAMELING. 



141 



An important feature is found in the method of ventilating 
the air space between the two boxes and also the inner box. 
Extending upward from the center of the top of the outer box 
is a pipe, A, provided with a suitable damper, which serves as a 
ventilating pipe for the air space between the two shells. A second 
and smaller pipe, B, leads from the top of the inner box through 




Fig. 6.— Enameling Oven Heated from Outside. 



the air space and top of the outer box, and then curves and 
joins the ventilating pipe A. This pipe serves to ventilate the 
interior oven and to carry away any gases or fumes arising 
from the article being enameled. 

For an ordinary repair shop the following dimensions 
would produce an oven of ample size for enameling any frame : 
Depth, 3 feet ; width, 4% feet ; hight, 5 feet, all of these being 
measurements of the inside box ; air space, 2 inches ; space be- 



142 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



tween bottoms in which burners E are placed, 7 inches ; venti- 
lating pipe A, 5 inches ; ventilating pipe B, 3 inches. Both 
pipes A and B should be provided with dampers, those of the 
ordinary stove pipe pattern serving every purpose. 

The gas pipe C and air pipe D might be made of i-inch gas 
pipe, the vertical pipe leading to the burners of 1% inches and 
the burners themselves of 3/e, inch, all of these being inside 
measurements. 

By properly regulating the valves controlling the admis- 
sion of gas and air any required temperature can be obtained* 
The heat is applied evenly at all parts and the oven can be 
brought to the desired condition very rapidly. This oven pos- 







tfW 


^ 


iSS 


>'Or 


Z E 




AIR GAS / 








sd&Zr 








jf 






%^ 



Fig. 7.— Plan Vieiv of Burners of Oven Fig. 6. 



sesses the desirable advantage of absolute cleanliness. Al- 
though the best results are to be derived when an air pressure 
can be obtained, this design can be used with gas at the usual 
pressure. In the latter case the gas should enter through the 
pipe D and the air through the pipe C. 

In connection with this oven is a thermometer, so arranged 
as to give the degree of heat in the interior, the temperature 
for the general run of work being maintained between 250 and 
300 degrees. 

Enameling Oven Heated with Coal. 

The enameling oven, Fig. 8, is arranged to be heated by a 
stove burning either coal or wood. The dimensions are 6 feet 
in hight, 5 feet in width and 3 feet in depth, all of these being 



ENAMELING. 



143 



inside measurements. The oven should be constructed of sheet 
iron of about Xo. 14 gauge, and then covered upon all sides and 
top with a. non-conductor of heat. For the latter purpose as- 
bestos answers admirably, but in order to insure cleanliness it 
should be covered, preferably with sheet tin. This covering 
would serve the double purpose of preventing any dust collect- 
ing on the asbestos and would also hold the latter firmlv in 



5 ft 




Fig. 8. — Ehutmeling Oven Heated with Coal. 

place. The interior of the oven is provided with rods carrying 
hooks, as described in the case of the other ovens. 

The most striking difference between this oven and those 
previously described is found in the method of heating. In one 
corner of the oven is placed a small cast iron stove, having no 
opening inside the oven except that designed to receive the 
smoke pipe. This stove is fed with wood or coal from the out- 
side, and the fire is attended and the ashes removed also from 
the cutside. 

The smoke pipe within the oven should be as long as it is 
possible to make it. In the engraving it will be noticed that 



144 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

the pipe, upon leaving the stove, bends at right angles, extends 
to the rear wall, along which it passes to the rear right hand 
corner and then extends upward, passing through the upper 
right hand corner to the chimney opening. This long length 
of pipe is introduced for the purpose of utilizing, as far as pos- 
sible, all of the heat to be derived from the burning coal. An 
oven of large size and heated in this way has been found to 
give good satisfaction and to provide the necessary tempera- 
ture without much trouble and to be cleanly. In a large 
oven an automatic damper is provided, which serves to regu- 
late the heat and to maintain an even temperature in the oven 
for any required length of time. This, while it might be a re- 
finement not absolutely necessary in the case of a small oven for 
general work, would undoubtedly work to the best advantage, 
and above all give the repairer reliable and exact information 
concerning the heat employed. 

Electrically Heated Enameling Oven. 

An extremely interesting oven, and one possessing very 
marked advantages, is shown in its principal features in Fig. 9. 
This method of heating an oven insures perfect cleanliness and 
provides for an easy and quick regulation of the heat, so that 
any desired temperature can be obtained by the mere moving 
of a switch. Further than this, the oven can be heated to the 
maximum degree in an exceedingly short time, since the full 
heating power can be turned on instantly. At the same time a 
uniform temperature can be maintained for any desired length 
of time. 

The inside measurements of the oven itself are 8 feet long, 
4 feet wide by 5 feet in hight. The usual racks are provided . 
for holding the various articles to be enameled. The oven is in- 
cased in brick to confine the heat, even the door itself being 
brick, the same as the sides. 

Except the front or side in which the door opening is, the 
inside walls carry steel strips or resistance bars, through 
which the current of electricity is passed, and which are thereby 
heated. The heating coils are made of steel tape % inch wide 
by 15 /ioo thick. 



ENAMELING. 



J 45 



The principle of this construction will be readily under- 
stood by reference to Fig. 9. The conductors from the dynamo 
lead to the switches 1, 3, 5 and 2, 4, 6, and from these switches 
to the several coils A. The voltage of the dynamo is no. The 
electrical resistance of the heating coils with all the switches in 
contact is 0.44 ohm, and current 250 amperes. Now, with the 
switches 1 and 6 thrown in 50 amperes of current are passed 




Fig. 9.— Electrically Heated Enameling Oven. 



through that section of the heating coil, and with the switches 
1,34 and 6, 150 amperes are passed through. With the switches 
1, 3, 5, 2, 4, 6, the maximum heating effect is obtained. The 
extreme simplicity of this construction will be perceived, and 
at the same time the effectiveness and close control made pos- 
sible by it will be understood. Further than this, this method 
of heating an oven has a very wide range of application, and it 
can be installed without much trouble and can be adapted 
readily to an oven of any required size. The wide introduction 
of electric lighting and power stations renders it possible to 



140 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

equip an oven with a heater of this description in almost any 
locality. 

All things considered, it is not probable that this oven could 
be run at as small a cost as those formerly described, but the 
superior advantages it possesses would, we think, more than 
offset this cost, and, as far as running expenses are concerned, 
very little is lost in bringing the oven up to the desired temper- 
ature, because the greatest heat can be obtained on the instant, 
and secondly, when the work has been baked to the desired ex- 
tent the current is switched off and all expense then ceases. 
With an oven of this kind perfect results can be confidently 
expected every time, because, as mentioned, of the even running 
temperature and perfectly clean surroundings. 

Steam Heated Enameling Oven. 

An idea of the general arrangement of a steam heated 
enameling oven may be obtained from Fig. 10. The oven 
illustrated is much larger than would be required in any repair 
shop, but its design is such as to permit of easy modification to 
suit any existing conditions. The oven is heated with live 
steam, conveyed direct from the main boilers. The walls of the 
oven are made of two shells of thick sheet iron, so arranged as 
to form an air space between them. The top is covered with a 
layer of asbestos about i inch thick. The floor is of sheet iron, 
and in this instance is provided with two tracks, upon which 
run iron cars carrying the articles to be enameled. This would 
not be necessary in a Bicycle repairing shop, and the bars and 
hooks could be substituted as in the other ovens. Inside of the 
sheet iron walls are vertical rows of steam pipes, placed closely 
together, as indicated. Across the top are other steam pipes. 
Below the pipes on the ceiling is a sheet iron apron, which 
serves to catch any dust or dirt that might fall from the over- 
head pipes. Steam at boiler pressure passes through all of 
these pipes. It is of the utmost importance in arranging these 
pipes to provide for their proper drainage — that is, provision 
should be made for the water condensed from the steam to flow 
to some point where it could be drawn off. 

An extremely uniform temperature can be maintained for 
any period in this oven. The way in which the heat is applied 



ENAMELING. 



147 



insures the even heating of every part of the oven. This is 
essential in an oven of large size, but is of minor value in one 
of small dimensions designed for the work of a small shop. 
The degree of heat to be obtained is controlled by the steam 
pressure available, and higher than this it is, evidently, impos- 
sible to go. But any lower temperature desired can be easily 
and quickly obtained and can be maintained indefinitely. 

Enameling Oven Under the Sidewalk. 

In a large city there is an enameling oven built under the 
sidewalk. The repair room is in the basement and is entered 



^^^^ ^™ 




Fig. 10.— Steam Heated Enameling Oven. 

from the street. The oven is built alongside the stairs and ex- 
tends under the sidewalk. The sides and rear end are built of 
brick, the roof being a brick arch. The front is also of brick, 
with the exception of the space for the door, which is made of 
two plates of thick sheet iron. Inside of the oven are the usual 
racks from which the work is suspended. The oven is heated 
by two long perforated pipes, containing the mixture of gas and 
air. These burners are similar in design to those previously 
described. 



I4S BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

This oven occupies space which would otherwise be of no 
value except for storage. There is no undue heating of the 
workroom, as there would be if the oven were placed in it. But, 
most important, the oven is economical in the use of gas, as the 
masonry walls and ceiling form a most effective barrier to the 
passage of heat. The loss by radiation through the walls is 
extremely small. This is shown by the long time required to 
cool the oven after the gas has been shut off. 

To Touch up the Enamel. 

To touch up the enamel, clean thoroughly with benzine, 
apply the enamel freely, and after it has spread out, but without 
waiting for it to dry, bake with the flame of a Bunsen burner, 
being careful to keep the frame in rapid motion. The enamel 
thus put on will be hard and bright and will rival the old 
enamel in beauty of finish. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Nickel Pflatieg, 

It is doubtful if there is any other part of Bicycle work 
which demands more careful attention than that of nickel plat- 
ing. Inferior work in this department will surely bring the en- 
tire establishment into disrepute. If the repairer is not 
actuated by the impulse to do the best electroplating possible, 
and to provide all the appliances necessary to accomplish this 
object, he had better drop the plating branch of the business 
and have work of this kind done elsewhere. 

The size or magnitude of the equipment for plating de- 
pends almost entirely upon the extent of the business carried 
on. This will govern the capacity, and whether it should be 
large enough to nickel an entire frame or only the smaller 
parts, such as handle bars, sprockets, hubs, etc. It would seem 
that in the great majority of shops it would be inexpedient to 
equip sufficiently to handle a frame, mainly because this work is 
seldom asked for, while the treatment of all the small parts com- 
monly nickeled is of frequent demand. 

Arrangement of Plating Room. 

The drawing, Fig. i, represents a conveniently arranged 
plating room capable of doing any work that may be needed 
in this line. It is very evident that, although this outfit is 
much larger and more elaborate than commonly needed, it may 
be easily changed to suit the conditions prevailing. Along the 
left side of the room are placed the nickel and copper solutions 
held in tanks. About in the center of the row of tanks is 
placed the dynamo. The electrical conductors from the 
dynamo lead to two conductors placed along the wall, and from 
these conductors lead wires to each of the tanks, as shown. At 
the opposite of the room is a work bench. In the center of the 
room are the lye and water baths and the scouring benches. 
At each end of the room is a sawdust box. 



150 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

Although full instructions for the complete setting up of a 
plant of this description will be given by manufacturers of elec- 
troplating appliances, it is better to have all the work done by 
the concern furnishing the machinery rather than have a novice 
attempt it. It may cost more to remedy a blunder than it 
would have cost if one familiar with the work had been en- 
gaged to do it in the first place. 

Cleaning and Polishing for Plating. 

In nickel plating Bicycle parts one of the most important 
things is to have the articles properly prepared before they are 
plated. If this is not done the nickel plating will peel and 
wear very badly, and as a Bicycle is exposed to the weather 
almost all the time it is essential that the nickel plating should 
be done in such a manner that the article will not rust through, 
which would be a serious defect. 

In polishing handle bars or other round bent parts, endless 
belts and sheepskin or soft bull neck wheels are used. For 
cranks and other straight or flat parts hard bull neck or leather 
covered wood wheels are used. 

These are set up first with No. 120 emery for roughing 
out, and with flour emery for fining. After these parts are 
polished on the above they are greased on felt grease wheels — 
that is, felt wheels set up with flour emery worn smooth and 
then greased or oiled. The parts are then finished on a buff 
with crocus or tripoli. Patent piece printers' ink buffs are 
recommended for this purpose on account of their hardness, 
which gives the fine finish necessary for this purpose. 

In this connection it may be advisable to give another 
method of grinding and polishing iron and steel work which 
has also been found to give excellent results in practice. 

First grind or cut down the work with No. 60 or No. 70 
emery, and for finishing use a very soft wheel, such as a com- 
pressed leather wheel or a wood wheel covered with leather. 
If No. 60 or No. 70 emery is used for cutting down set the 
wheel for finishing with No. 120 emery, but if No. 90 or No. 100 
emery is used for cutting down set the wheel for finishing with 
No. 150 emery. Work the wheel down to a smooth surface, 



NICKEL PLATING. 



151 



then rub or charge the wheel well with Bayberry tallow and 
work down to a smooth surface before using it on the work. 

If a very high and fine finish is desired for Bicycle parts 
before plating, then it is advisable to use the wheel set with 
flour emery paste, the operation of finishing being the same as 




J 


COPPER 


<\ 


SOLUTION 



SOLUTION 





NICKLE 


J\ 


SOLUTION 






NICKLE 


,-fl 


SOLUTION 






NICKLE 


J 


SOLUTION 






NICKLE 


J. 


SOLUTION 



SAWDUST 
BOX 




ddd 

COLD 
WATER 

H 



Q 

HOT 
WATER 




Fig. 1.— Arrangement of Nielcpl Plating Room. 

with the No. 120 or No. 150 emery, the emery paste being used 
after the No. 150 emery. 

To prepare the emery paste make the glue only one-half 
the usual consistency, then add sufficient quantity of flour 
emery to make the mass the usual thickness of glue, and apply 



[52 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

to the wheel with a brush when very hot. Make but little at a 
time, as it soon spoils. 

In polishing tubular work, such as handle bars, etc., use 
first the strap set in No. 70 to No. 100 emery, the canvas strap 
being- the better. To finish, use walrus hide wheels, varving in 
width from ^ to 1% inches and 3 to 5 inches in diameter, turn- 
ing the walrus wheel concave enough to let the work slide easily 
in the groove. 

Plating the Bicycle Parts. 

The parts, after being polished as above, are taken to the 
plating room. As iron and steel when nickel plated and ex- 
posed to the weather are apt to rust through the plating, it is 
important to copper plate all such articles before nickel plating 
them. 

The parts are first wired, or put on racks or pieces of wire 
bent in such a way as to hold the different parts securely in the 
solution and while cleaning. They are then dipped in a hot 
solution of salicornia lye for from 10 to 15 minutes. This will 
remove all the grease or oil. They are then thoroughly rinsed 
in cold water and scoured with fine pumice stone, using a 
platers' brush. They are again rinsed in water and then dipped 
into an acid solution, usually composed of oil of vitriol diluted 
with water. This will remove any oxide that may have been 
formed. They are again rinsed in water and are at once placed 
or suspended in the copper solution and are plated for from 10 
to 20 minutes, according to the thickness of the deposit required 
and the strength of the current used. They are then taken out, 
rinsed in cold water, then plunged in boiling water, and dried 
in boxwood sawdust. They are then removed and taken to the 
buffing room, where they are colored on an unbleached muslin 
buff with snowfiake polish or rouge. 

They are now returned to the plating room to be nickel 
plated. The parts are again wired up as before, placed in the 
hot solution of salicornia lye for a few minutes to remove the 
dirt and grease from the buffing operation, again rinsed in cold 
water, and are this time brushed with whiting. Rinsed thor- 
oughly in water, dipped in a weak solution of cyanide of potas- 
sium to remove any oxidation or tarnish, they are again rinsed 



NICKEL PLATING. 



*53 



in cold water and placed at once in the nickel solution. They 
remain in this solution from three-quarters of an hour to one 
and a half hours, depending on the thickness of the deposit re- 
quired and the strength of the electric current employed. 
They are then removed from the nickel solution, rinsed thor- 
oughly in cold water, plunged in boiling water, and dried in 
boxwood sawdust as before. They are again taken to the 
buffing room and are finished or colored upon a soft buff, which 
is usually an unbleached muslin buff, with snowflake polish. 
The above is the latest and most improved method of polishing 
and plating Bicycle parts, and the results obtained have been 
very satisfactory. 

The Electric Current. 

Regarding the electric current to be employed to plate these 
articles, it is necessary that the proper voltage (intensity of cur- 
rent) should be employed, and also that the solution should be 
of the proper strength and made in the proper manner. 

As large an anode surface should be employed for nickel 
plating as it is possible to get, because the resulting metal 
which is plated on these articles must be very white in color, 
homogeneous and adherent. 

This is best accomplished by having a large anode surface, 
as nickel is so difficult to dissolve it is harder to keep the 
solution supplied with metal than other solutions, and conse- 
quently if a large anode surface is not employed the solution 
will become weak in metal, and the plating will then turn out 
badly and be dark in color, which will necessitate the frequent 
addition of nickel salts to the solution. Also, when a very 
large anode surface is employed the electric current can be 
weaker and still the results will be satisfactory. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Keeping Track of Work. 

The desirability of adopting some method of keeping track 
of the work being done will not be disputed. No matter what 
system may be adopted, it should be simple ; it should provide 
for the quick and ready identification of the wheel being re- 
paired and of all the parts belonging to any particular wheel ; 
it should furnish an accurate account of all the stock parts used 
and the labor expended, and should give the cost of the parts 
and the charges for labor ; the bookkeeping should be the 
simplest possible. 

All of the following engravings of tags are exactly two- 
thirds the size of the originals, and all are made of heavy manila 
paper. 

Duplicate Tag. 

The first tag, Fig. i, is used in duplicate, the party bring- 
ing in the Bicycle, or part, for repairs being furnished with the 
duplicate simply bearing his name and address and the number 
and style of his wheel. Details and instructions are written on 
the tag kept in the shop, and the charges for the work are also 
placed on this tag. The duplicate must be presented before the 
wheel will be delivered. 

Tag with Stub. 

The next tag, Fig. 2, is on the same principle as that just 
described, but in arrangement it is different. It consists of a 
card &}4 inches long by 3^2 inches wide, the bottom being in 
the form of a stub which is torn off and given to the owner of 
the wheel. On both check and stub are written the name of 
the wheel, number, date received and date to be finished. A 
description of the work done is written on the check. The 
estimated cost of repairing is placed on the stub. 



KEEPING TRACK OF WORK. 



155 



Tag with List of Parts. 

The engravings, Figs. 3 and 4, show a tag possessing sev- 
eral novel features. The tag is perforated near the middle so 
that the stub can be torn off and handed to the owner. Both 
stub and check are made out alike and carry the shop number 
of the job, the date of receipt and when promised, the name of 



REPAIR. NO. 

oocHvr 



Kenwooi 



FG. CO. 




Date Received.. 
When to be done. 



(hjl..Qu3^.. 



Name 

Address 

Style y%£^^^^^£ No fejl 



189£ 



Parts used.. 



m....... 



Labor hours 

Amount to collect Total 



Repairer. 



Fig. 1.— Duplicate Tag. 

the owner and the instructions. On the back of the tag are 
printed the names of all the parts of a wheel, and columns are 
provided for entering the cost ot the work done. When this 
list has been filled out it forms an accurate record of the work 
done and effectually bars out any dispute which might arise in 
the future as to the repairs made if the machine should be 



1^6 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

brought back for any claim for defective work. Whether the 
stub handed the owner should bear the address of the repairer 
or not is an open question. 



HOWARD A. SMITH & C0. 9 

NEWARKjf J N. J. 

Rec'd.^^^r...*f 189 /""" 

Number .../... ^ZjL 

Description ^i^k^..^^:.. ..__ 

Repairs... ..^ _ 



l-rf-i^ 



^z^i^C — 



Finished J^cd^^ & 



BRING THIS CHECK WITH TOU. 

HOWARD A. SMITH <& CO., 

518 Broad St., Newark, N.J. 

B3TA11 repairs left over 30 days subject to storage.^} 



Dale Received-. 
Repair No. 
Machine 



-f**6f & 



2Z 



To be Done .fizdJZ^Jfe 



Estimated Cost. 



Fig. 2. — Tag with Stub. 



SEE OTHER SIDE FOR REPAIRS. 

I tfo. A J> O 

Received &tW,k(...jL5. 

The Wilkins Toy Go. 

BICYCLE REPAIR DEPARTMENT. 



m %J&\Mx...£^mfe 

JOE 



• ...i^MMt,. 



When wanted 



Remarks 



UU^.cuA. _. 

^.oM£.....&U. 



RETURN THIS STUB TO OFFICE. 

M [f.ldtfa*...b/faM*r. 

' .KjUmjl .......... 

LkJtk 

Aul^±k 

epairedby lTA/WV?i. 



When repaired. 



Delivered V.V^i< 

Remarks 



t 



Iu^lML 

liuA&tL wJ}A*M 



/ c 


\ 


\ 


\ 


Price. 


Price, 


Cleaning, 






Japan Frame, 






Cement Tires, 






" Fork, 






Repair Valves, 






•■ Wheels, 






Patch Tubes, 






New Crank. 






Repair Punctures, 






•« Crank Shaft, 






True Wheels, 






- Chain. 






Spokes, 






" Links; 






Nipples, 






■• Link Bolt. 






Balls, 






> Pedal Pin, 






Straighten Fork, 






•• Handle. 






" Frame, 






- Grips. 






Crank, 






•• Cones 






Pedal Pins, 






• Rear Hub. 






Wheel Rims 






" Front Hub, 






" Handle Bar 






" Crank Sprocket. 






Tires, 






•• Rear Sprocket, 






Inner Tubes, 






Braze Frame, 






Valves, 






" Fork, 






" Stem, 






" Handle Bai 






Crank Pin, 






New Tube. 






Nuts, 






Repair Sprocket. 






Wood Rims, 












Metal Rims, 












Sprocket Key, 






Time Hours, 








Total 

1 . . . 










Price 




Price 


Cleaning, 






Japan Frame, 






Cement Tires, 






•' Fork. 






Repair Valves, 






Wheels, 






Patch Tubes, 






N-w Crank. 






Repair Punctures, 






" Crank Shaft. 






True Wheels, 






" Chain, 






Spokes, 






" Links, 






Nipples, 






" Link Bolt, 






Balls, 






'• Pedal Pin. 






Straighten Fork. 






" Handle, 






*' Frame, 






" Grips, 






Crank, 






•*■ Cones. 






Pedal Pins, 






" Rear Hub. 






" Wheel Rim 






" Front Hub, 






" Handle Bar 






" Crank Sprocket, 






Tires, 






*• Rear Sprocket, 






Inner Tubes, 






'Braze Frame, 






Valves, 






" Fork, 






Stesm, 






" Handle Bar. 






Crank Fin, 






New Tube, 






Nuts, 






Repair Sprocket, 






Wood Rims, 












Metal Rims, 












Sprocket Key, 






Time Hours, 








Total. 



Fig. 3.— Tag with List of Parts. 



157 



Fig. 4— Back of Fig. 3, 



'53 



BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



Several methods of marking the wheel on the tag are fol- 
lowed. Some repairers give the wheel a number and it is 



KIMBALL & WORRICK, 

^BICYCLE REPAIRING, 



'ALL WORK GUARANTEED. 



Name 



Address .... 
Date of Order . 
Name of Wheel 
Number of Whee 
Name of Tires / 



'T^Ncw Spokes $ 

"1 New Balls 



/ New Nipples , 

New Valve 

New Handles 

New Inner Tube 

New Tires, (Single Tubes) 

New Rims, (Wooden) . . . 

New Crank Shaft 

New Pedal Crank 

^Repair Chain 

Repair Pedal 

Repair Valve 

Repair Puncture 

Repair Handle Bar .... 
V'f rue Front Wheel .... 

True Rear Wheel 

True Frame 

Enamel Frame 

%/ciean Wheel 

Total 

Remarks 



Date Completed 
Workman 



^ 



Fig. 5. Card with Schedule. 

known in the shop only by this number. Others add the name 
of the wheel. Still others designate the wheel by its name and 



KEEPING TRACK OF WORK. 



J 59 



its own number, this number then constituting the shop num- 
ber. The objection to this plan is that it is not always easy to 
quickly find the manufacturer's number, and the shop accounts 
are more confused as there is such a wide variation in the num- 



TINKHAM CYCLE CO. 

Description /^5^<^£z-„ 

HUTCHINSON \j (st\f Z / "Jsfjf /? 

^_^^ From yev t/^T^ ^t/ycutX JOZ^f „. 

(J) Address (/ fOC/d Q^JlAz/1 

Instructions „ /T&4k&<<><V?.... 
»ocol.»v«. VT / — v _* 



189 <3 




Collect $ 



Fig. 6.— First Tag. 

bers. Perhaps the simplest way is to give the name of the 
wheel and assign to it the next number in order on the repair 
book. 

A point upon which too much stress cannot be laid is the 
importance of having the work finished when promised. Punc- 




Fig. 7.— Tag for Part Removed from Wheel. 

tuality is almost as important as the quality of the work done, 
and if a repairer once gets the reputation of being slow and 
repeatedly fails to produce the wheel on time his trade will 
suffer seriously. He must be careful when the job comes in to 
name a date when he is sure to have the task completed. 
Riders are impatient and particularly dislike to be disappointed. 



[60 BICYCLE REPAIRING. 

Card with Schedule. 

The card shown in Fig. 5 is very similar to the one pre- 
viously illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4. The most common repairs 
are enumerated and a column is provided for the cost of each. 
Upon the top of the card are entered the name and address of 
the owner of the wheel, the trade name of the wheel, the manu 
facturer's number and the directions. Recording the wheel in 
this way is an aid in identifying it in case it is lost and the 
owner has no account of the number, etc. 

An Elaborate System. 

The other engravings, Figs. 6 to 11 inclusive, represent a 
more elaborate system than any heretofore described, and one 
which has been found to be well adapted to the requirements 
of a shop doing a large repair business. While at first glance it 
may appear to be rather complicated and to require too much 
writing, it is in fact extremely simple. 

The first tag, containing the name and address of the owner 
and the directions, is tied to the wheel when it enters the shop- 
At the lower left hand corner of the tag the owner signs his 
name. This serves as a check in case there should be any dis- 
pute when the wheel is delivered. 

The second tag is placed on the wheel when it enters the 
repair department. This tag names all the parts of the wheel 
which have been removed as a matter of convenience. In this 
particular case the lamp has been taken off, and this should 
have been noted in the engraving, Fig. 8, but was inadvertently 
omitted. At this stage the wheel also receives a shop number, 
7963. Every part removed from the wheel receives a small tag, 
Fig. 7, having the shop number upon it. When the wheel re- 
turns to the delivery room the tag Fig. 10, shows that an " S, 
L. Lamp " belongs to the wheel, and the small tag serves to 
identify this lamp. Fig. 9 is the back of the second tag and on 
it the charges are entered. The last tag is stamped "paid" 
when the wheel is delivered. 

Upon the ledger are entered the name, directions and 
charges, the form used being shown in Fig. 11. While the di- 
rections in this instance were " repair puncture in front tire." 







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BICYCLE REPAIRING. 



the charges show that upon examination a new tire was found 
to be necessary. All the tags are kept one month, as a precau- 
tion in case of dispute, and are then destroyed. 



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KEEPING TRACK OF WORK. 163 

Charging. 

The usual practice in Bicycle repairing is to charge the re- 
tail price for the parts furnished and 50 cents an hour for the 
time employed upon the job. Some repairers, as a bid for trade, 
repair all wheels which they have sold, and wheels for which 
they have the agency, at the actual cost of doing the work. 

Although the owner of the Bicycle almost always wants to 
know in advance what the repairs will cost, it is an exceedingly 
difficult matter for the repairer, in a quick examination, to ar- 
rive at an estimate which is just to himself and to his customer. 
The more the wheel is damaged the harder it is to guess at the 
cost. Repairers are therefore divided in opinion concerning" 
the advisability in all cases of naming the cost before the work 
has been finished. The owner of the wheel almost invariably 
describes just what he wants done, and very rarely does he 
leave the repairing to the judgment of the workman with in- 
structions to " fix everything necessary." This practice increases 
the difficulty under which the repairer labors when naming the 
price in advance. If the work costs more than the estimate 
there is apt to be trouble when the wheel is delivered, and also 
if defects are found which should be remedied, but which were 
not mentioned by the owner and they are not repaired because 
not ordered, there is the possibility of further trouble. Thus 
the repairer is not left free to pursue the course his experience 
tells him is the best for all concerned. On this point we may 
mention the fact that one of the largest Bicycle manufacturers 
in the country has an inflexible rule to make no repairs not 
specifically ordered. In other words, the instructions of the 
owner are followed to the letter. 



INDEX. 



PAGE. 

Accounts. Shop (see Tag) 154 

Elaborate System 160 

Bar Straightener 127 

Ball Hearing Case, Removing 118 

Balls. Holding in Place 131 

Bench. Work 13 

Bicycle Hung from Ceiling 21 

Rack for Holding 20 

Testing a 71 

Borax 45 

Brazing, Cleaning After 46 

Fitting Parts for 42 

Flux for 44 

Four-Flame Furnace 36 

Furnace Without Fire Bricks 35 

Heating a Joint for 41 

Holding Frame for 59 

Large Furnace for , 34 

Simple Furnace in Detail 38 

Solder or Spelter 46 

With Ordinary Forge 40 

Bunsen Burner 33, 46, 47, 48 

Case Hardening T 52 

Unique Furnace for 55 

Chain, Mending : 130 

Putting on a 131 

Charging 163 

Crank, Boring 124 

Puller, Adjustable 120 

Vise used for Removing Key 121 

Enamel, Touching up 148 

Enameling 134 

Brick Oven for 139 

Dipping Frames 137 

Liquid Applying 136 

Oven Heated from Outside 141 

. Oven Under Sidewalk 147 

Oven Heated with Coal. 142 

Oven Heated with Electricity 144 

Oven Heated with Steam 146 

Preparing for 135 

Sheet Iron Oven 136, 138 

Faces, False for Vises 122 

Use of False, for Vises 124 

Flux (see Brazing). 

Forge for Tempering 52 

Fork, Bending a 77 

Bending in a Vise 83 



INDEX. 165 

Fork Bent Unevenly 82 

Holding in Vise 81 

Mending a Broken 64, 84 

Pulling into Form 77 

Restoring a Twisted 78 

Testing a , 75 

Truing a 85 

Frame, Crank Shaft Bracket, Broken 58 

Holding for Brazing 59 

Rack for Holding 62 

Restoring a Bent 61 

Socket Head Broken 57 

Table for Testing a 71 

Testing with a Cord 70 

Testing with a Straight Edge 69 

Truing up a 67 

Furnace (see Brazing). 

Handle Bar, Form for Bending a 114 

Machine for Bending 116 

Plans for Curving . 113 

Removing and Replacing 116 

Simple Device for Bending 115 

Hub Flanges, Drilling 125 

Mending a Broken 131 

Inner Tube (see Tire) . 

Key, Crank, Vise used for Removing 121 

Dog for Removing - 120 

Removing , 119 

Nickel Plating ." 149 

Arrangement of Room for 149 

Bicycle Parts 152 

Cleaning and Polishing for 150 

Electric Current for 153 

Oven (see Enameling). 

Parts Carried in Stock 15 

Rack for Holding Bicycles. 20 

Repairing, Curiosity 62 

Rim, Cementing Tire to 106 

Drilling in Upright Drill 95 

Drilling in Lathe 96 

Seat, Standard, Drilling 126 

Shaft, Straightening 128 

Shop Accounts '. 154 

Elaborate System of 160 

Arrangement 15 

Equipment for $100 10 

Equipment for $300 12 

Equipment for $500 12 

In Special Building 19 

In Store • 17 

Tools in 10 

Solder .' 46 



1 66 INDEX. 

Spelter 46 

Spoke, Removing Broken Radial 94 

Sprocket, Removing Screwed-on 129 

Truing a 129 

Stand for Bicycle 22 

Folding 24 

Home Made 27 

Inverted 23 

Live 30 

Show 26 

Simple . 25 

Supported at Bearings 22 

With Cast Iron Base 29 

With Table 28 

Tag, Duplicate 154 

With Stub 154 

With List of Parts 155 

With Schedule 160 

Tap, Home Made 56 

Tempering 50 

Forge Arranged for 52 

Tire, Cementing to Rim 1C6 

Finding Puncture in 99 

Lacing a 105 

Needle for Repairing 101 

Patching Inner Tube 103 

Preparing Inner Tube Patch 104 

Removing Inner Tube 105 

Repairing Large Break in Inner Tube 103 

Repairing Corner 107 

Repairing Single Tube 98 

Tools in Shop , 10 

Tube, Device for Straightening 66 

Mending a Broken - 63 

Straightening a Bent 65 

Valve, Repairing Inner Tube Stem 108 

Repairing, Proper , 110 

Repairing, Single Tube 108 

Vise, False Faces for 122 

Spring, False Face for 124 

Wheel, Assembling a 86 

Changing Radial to Tangent Spoke , 94 

Device for Truing 91 

Frame for Stringing Up 87 

Jack for Truing 92 

Removing Broken Radial Spoke 94 

Truing a 88 

Truing a Front 89 

Truing a Rear 90 

Work, Bench * 13 

Keeping Track of ... : : 154 

Wrench, Home Made Wire 133 



The Iron Age 

NEW YORK CHICAGO 

PHILADELPHIA PITTSBURGH BOSTON CINCINNATI 

ST. LOUIS. 



AS THE HARDWARE TRADE are now the largest 
distributers of Bicycles, The Iron Age, the representative paper 
of the Hardware trade, is devoting considerable space to this 
branch of the business. Its articles on " Bicycle Repairing," 
from which this book has been compiled and which will be con- 
tinued in a series of articles running through the year, are 
especially interesting, and the descriptions of the different 
makes of Wheels and Bicycle Sundries are invaluable to the 
Hardware dealer. Constant attention is also paid in its 
columns to the arrangement of stores for the display of 
Bicycles and Sporting and Athletic Goods. 

The Iron Age is indispensable to the Hardwareman, not 
only for its interest in Bicycles as concerns the Hardwareman, 
but for the general information it contains on all lines of the 
Hardware business. 

The fact that The Iron Age is taken by nearly all the Hard- 
ware trade, both large and small, and by some continuously 
during the forty years of its existence, is evidence that it meets 
their wants. 

In order to meet the views of all classes it is issued weekly 
in three editions at $4.50, §2.00 and $1.00 per year. 

DAVID WILLIATIS, Publisher, 

96-102 Reade Street, New York. 



The American Hardware Store, 

A Manual of Approved Methods of Arranging and 
Displaying Hardware. 

By R. R. WILLIAMS, Hardware Editor of "The Iron Age," 
450 PAGES. 500 ILLUSTRATIONS. PRICE, $3.00. 



This volume has been compiled from the extended series 
of articles in The Iron Age on the arrangement of Hardware 
Stores. It gives full and detailed information on the subject, 
discussing with numerous diagrams the question of the general 
arrangement of the store, location of office, shelving, counters, 
showcases, etc., and describing, with about 500 illustrations, 
methods of accommodating the different kinds of goods in suit- 
able racks, bins, drawers, etc. Sampling, window display and 
other matters connected with the subject are also treated. 
The following titles of the chapters indicate the scope of the 
book : 



General Arrangement. 






Locks and Door Trimmings. 


Office. 






Sandpaper. 
Screen Wire Cloth. 


Shelving. 






Galleries. 






Wire. 


Elevators and Cranes. 






Files. 


Show Windows. 






Horseshoes. 


Counters. 






Chains. 


Counter Showcases. 






Belting. 


Upright Showcases. 






Rope 


Ceiling Arrangement. 
Sampling Goods. 






Hardies. 






Sleds. 


Signs in the Store. 
Pillars for Displaying 






Scale Beams. 


Goods. 




Farm Bells. 


Scales. 






Malleable Fittings, etc. 


Roll Paper. 






Pumps. 


Nails. 






Pipe and Tubing. 


Farm and Garden Tools. 




Axles. 


Scythes. 






Glass Racks. 


Bolts, Screws, etc. 






Glass-Cutting Tables. 


Crosscut Saws. 






Paints and Colors. 


Hand Saws. 






Oils, Turpentine and Varnish 


Edge Tools. 






Brushes. 


Planes. 






Oilcloth. 


Squares. 






Seeds. 


Plumbs and Levels. 






Bird Cages. 


Axes and Hatchets. 






Lamps. 


Cutlery. 






Stoves. 


Sporting Goods. 






Iron and Steel. 


EVERY HARDWARE MERCHANT SHOULD HAVE A COPY. 




DAVID 


WILLIAMS, Publisher, 






96=102 Reade Street, New 











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BWDERY INC. |e 

# DEC 91 
N. MANCHESTER, 
INDIANA 46962 




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